This is a review "of sorts" on all the pocket battle games (aka pbgs) from the original publishers, LPS, Inc and High Flying Dice Games, Ltd.
Up to now (Nov 10, 2019April 27, 2021, Mar 31 2023), Oct 15, 2023, LPS, Inc has put out (30) (32) (34) 36 various pocket battle games (PBGs) under two different companies - Turning Point Simulations and Against the Odds magazine. High Flying Dice Games, Inc has put out two under their company logo, but I believe more are on the way, 😉.
Now, I am not going into an in depth review or point out which is the best design or play, as what I like and believe is very good, you may not, but I am listing the PBGs that are available and what each game covers.
(though this isn't considered a PBG, Thunder Gods is composed of 3 pbg size gaming maps and the counters. I put it here to complete this post.)
Note: Games in italics have reviews on this blog and are linked to those reviews. Games in this color can actually be joined together to create the entire battle.
Big Games?
The PBGs above in yellow can be joined together and played as bigger games - for example #6, #7, #8, #9, create the Battle of Bulge; #13, #14, #15, #16, the entire battle of Leipzig; and #21, #22, #23, #24, #25, make up all five beach landings on D-Day. I have played them all, but my favorite "big" game is #21 to #25, the D-Day set. One can get advance rules to play the games combined.
Well, what are they?
In all honestly, these are not monster games with 4 or more large game map sheets covering a 4' x 6'
or larger table with 1000's of counters, pages of errata, volumes of rules or the complication of said rules, and taking months if not years to play. Nor are they like a standard size game with an 11"x17" (or larger) game map, 80 to 100+ counters and 6 to 20 pages of rules.
But, three can be considered "monster" PBGs as they have four game maps and can be join together. 😁
These are nice, simple to play games. Complicated enough not to be able to figure out the ultimate "win all the time" game plan strategy within a few plays if at all. If I had to say what the games are like, they would be akin to the old SPI Capsule Games or Meta-Gaming Micro games, though, much smaller, better graphics, and a more variable play result - Easy to play, but hard to master.
Four inches by six inches (post card size), heavy duty poster board with 16 to 20 counters (most have 17 counters) each. Nicely printed with a game map on one side and rules on the other. I have noticed that each seem to have a clear coating, too. Dice may be needed for some of the PBGs and some use a playing card system for movement and/or combat.
The games are not slapped together in a haphazard fashion, but truly planned out with attention to detail. I was once told by Paul Rohrbaugh that "it is harder to design these pocket games to be as true to history and fun, than it is to design a larger game. Only 4"x6" of playing surface and 20 or less counters. Fun is the key word here, as with any game, if it is not "fun" to play, then why play it?". I agree.
Clear, concise rules that cover everything has to be provided. Units must equal what was at the particular battle. For example, ATO #11, The Union Forever, covers the entire American Civil War to include blockade runners, Lee's invasion of the North, C.S.A. state militia and armies, Union Armies, and carpet baggers (i.e. Federal control of Southern states) (and this is one of my favorites). Another PBG, TPS #1"Rattankrieg" covers the German attack at the tractor factory during the Battle of Stalingrad. Design for solo play, it is not a walk over for the Germans. As a bonus, these two games are designed and developed by two of the nicest and devoted to history game designers out there - Steve Cunliffe and Paul Rohrbaugh. Again, a lot of thought and probably a lot of hair pulling went into this game.
Ok, what about the cost and how do I get them?
The games, are inexpensive, with the LPS (ATO/TPS) series being free with a purchase (this also gets you mounted die-cut counters for your PBG as well), or if you have an ATO magazine subscription, I believe you will get a few as part of your subscription.
High Flying Dice Games offers 2 PBGs = #1 Dueling Eagles Over Malta and
#2 "Rock and a Hard Place" and one not consider as a PBG "Thunder Gods".
Three ways to get HFDGs PBG #1 "Dueling Eagles Over Malta" -
When one purchases four games from HFDGs, ask for it.
It is included in ATO magazine #45, the issue with "Red Dragon: Blue Dragon game.
It is available for $* with a card set and a set of mounted counters from HFDG.
It is an excellent little game and worth what ever it takes to get it,
especially since it is a fairly easy to play air combat gaming system,
that is exciting. Both have reviews on this site.
HFDG's pbg
#2 "Rock and a Hard Place" can be purchased for $* and comes with a card set (worth it right there as I have this card set and it is nicely done).
HFDG's ## "Thunder Gods" can be purchased for $* and a card set can be bought.
HFDG card replacement for PBGs and others...
I need to make a special note that High Flying Dice Games has a lot of card sets made up for the PBG's that uses cards. These card sets are used to replace the normal playing deck one may need in a PBG. You can click here to order. Price is $* and shipping. Are they worth it? Yes, as all the info one will need to play the pbgs are on those replacement cards.
note - $* - means there is a cost for them, but at this time, I have no idea what it is now (prices have gone up). Best to go to High Flying Dice web site and check it out for yourself.
So how does one play them? Once one figures out which PBG to play, cut out the counters as carefully as one can, grab a card deck if needed and/or a die, and read the rules then sit down to play.
I blow the game up to 11x17 and may make new counters. I also make a copy of rules on the back, glue/mount and cut out the new counters (click here for instructions on how to mount counters), and find all the addenda I can (below are links, but there is not much).
Note: Addenda for the Games can be downloaded from ATO or TPS for their series of games and contact High Flying Dice Games for their addenda.
Note: The rules for combining all of the Five for Fighting PBGs has been updated and contains now the rules for the all the variants, including the USA Paratroopers. You can download them here.
Errata for the pocket battle games from ATO, download here.
Errata for the pocket battle games from TPS, download here.
Link to the different pocket battle games from ATO, click here.
Link to the different pocket battle games from TPS, click here.
Since I know I will play the PBG a lot of times, I make sure to take care of the counters and map. These little games are well printed on very stiff poster board and can take a beating, but like anything paper, if it gets wet or mistreated, will fall apart.
Note: Just remember, these games just like their big brothers are COPYRIGHTED by the publisher. Not for copying to give to your friends or loved ones. And if you give your pocket game to someone else, then you need to give what you copied/made to the same person or destroyed it. It is only fair and right.
If you have made it this far, that's it. As stated above, I have reviewed a bunch of these games for the blog and each game that I play, impresses me just that more. They are fun, they don't take a lot of resources in playing, they don't take up a lot of room (good, if you are a traveling person) and best of all, don't take a lot of time to play. And perfect for introducing someone to the world of military conflict gaming.
A FYI - I removed my updated counters and house rules, etc for these small games, due to namby-pamby jack wagons posting their XXX crap on my google drive.
thanks for reading, -ab
This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information. And I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that are no longer on this blog. Long story, it was Google who removed them.
Yes, another small pocket game, Against the Odds' Pocket Battle Game #10 "La Garde recule! Attack at Waterloo" the retreat of the Imperial Guard, the final French attack at Waterloo, 18 June 1815.
Title:La Garde recule! Attack at Waterloo Price: $0 free with a purchase or buy The Waterloo PBG Pack from ATO Series: Pocket Battle game #10 Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh Graphics Designer: Mark Mahaffey Publisher: LPS, Inc Published Date: 2011
Subject: This pbg concerns the last actions of Napoleon's Guards in the final French attack on the Allied center.
Abbreviations used: AF = Attack Factor, DF = Defense Factor, MP = Movement Points, CD = Card Draw, ACT = Activations, PBG = Pocket Battle Game, "Allies" = British and Dutch, "French" = Old, Middle and Young Guard, " > " is the Greater Than math symbol.
Scale: A quick guesstimate, if I may, considering that the infantry units can fire up to 2 hexes away, a hex is aprx 100 yards with the units representing battalions. But, this is really not important.
Complexity: Introductory!!!
Description of Play: Either player draws a card (CD). The color and type of card allows one player to activate up to 3 units. Once activated, the unit can either move one hex or preform fire combat or flip a unit over from a reduce state to full strength.
Note: If you have played TSP's pocket battle game #5, "A Hard Pounding", then you will know how to play this one. Differences is no French Arty marker or Major Baring, but the Allies do have the "Duke", himself and all cards are used in the deck, no 9 or 10 cards pulled.
Components and Physical Quality: The game comes as a standard size 4" x 6" postcard cardboard. The card is very nice and can take a lot of plays. Printing is very good. The rules along with a small player's aid listing the terrain with it's corresponding card modifiers and unit breakdown are on the backside with the game map on the front. Counters need to be cut out for playing.
Counters: The game only has 17 counters. Allies have ten (9 infantry units and 1 Duke of Wellington leader) counters and the French have six and one game turn marker. Allied units are red (British) or green (Dutch) with black lettering and the French are blue with white lettering.
Note: There are no differences between Guard units and regular line (foot) infantry.
Game Map: For such a small game map it is well design. I can see why LPS, Inc uses Mark as their GD.
Player added Component: Players will need to provide a normal deck of cards.
Card Deck setup: Shuffle a standard card deck with 1 Joker, A CD is perform with the French using black cards and Allies using red cards. An activation allows a unit to either move or perform fire combat.
Each type of card does the following:
An even CD allows up to two units to activate.
An odd CD allows up to three units to activate.
A face card CD allows one unit to activate or to flip one unit from reduced to full strength.
An ace is treated as a one for combat or odd for activation.
For combat when a face card is drawn, it is an automatic "miss", exception is Duke of Wellington, as he can be eliminated on a CD of a black ace or king. See "Special Unit Counter" below).
The Joker signals the end of the game turn when it is drawn for either activation or combat resolution, unless it is drawn before both sides have activated units. In this case, bury it and continue play until the end of the deck.
Note: Of course, High Flying Dice Games, has their own card set for this game. Cost is $8 plus postage. Click on the .jpg to the right.
Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10): This is like A Hard Pounding. I give it a 7. It can be played as solitaire, as just about any game can.
Versions/Scenarios: Only one version, no extra rules or scenarios.
Setup Time: Once everything is cut out, what, maybe 3 mins for setup? It will take longer to shuffle the card deck.
Playing Time: This one is quick. My games last 30 to 45 mins if that long. Maybe 45 mins to 1 hour to learn the game the first time, but after?
Rules: The rules are simple and flow nicely from the various areas of "Setup" to "Play" to "Combat" and to "Reinforcements". After looking over and playing this little game, I found these rules to be very logical, concise, and can see why "A Hard Pounding (TSP's pbg #5) plays so well. Most important - NO ZONES OF CONTROL and combat is voluntary. No stacking except for the Duke.
Addenda: "none" as I can't find any.
Description of Play: Play is very easy, almost as if the designer was using a formula that he perfected in the past, sweet. This game has the following:
Setup:
Six Allied units setup on the red diamonds, and three units on any "R".
Two "1st wave" French units on any blue diamond.
No stacking, except if the Lord Wellington counter is used as an allied reinforcement.
Play:
A card draw (CD) activates units for either moving 1 hex or fire combat.
It doesn't matter who draws the card, as it is the color and type of card that depicts which unit(s) are activated.
Combat:
Units may fire up to 2 hexes away.
Infantry have a -2 CD modifier if firing at a non-adjacent hex.
Allied Artillery firing at a French unit in an adjacent hex has a +1 CD modifier.
Allies "Lord Wellington" adds +1 CD modifier for attacking and +1 DF for any Allied unit he is stacked with.
Terrain on combat
Hill terrain has a +1 CD modifier against clear terrain.
Units in woods have a -1 CD.
No firing thru other units, hills, woods, but can fire into such hexes.
To perform a combat resolution, the attacker picks out the lucky defending target.
a CD is performed (any color or suite is used), adding this to the AF.
Subtract the DF and hex terrain and/or range.
Face cards are an outright miss (exception: the Duke of Wellington is killed if the unit he is stacked with has a combat CD of black Ace or King)
A hit is scored on the defender if the final modified value is greater than the target units DF.
If the unit was full strength, it is flipped over to it's reduced side.
If the unit was reduced from before, it is eliminated and removed from play.
If the modified value is equal to or less than " < " the target's DF: No Effect.
Reinforcements:
Only the French receives reinforcements.
There is a number on the lower right side that indicates the earliest turn the French reinforcement can arrive. They can always enter on later game turns.
Game Length: The game last up to 5 turns of card deck shuffles. Victory is dependent on the French securing their victory conditions - either eliminate all Allied units or exit three non-reduced units (or four units if one of them is reduced) along the north edge of the game map. Otherwise the Allies win.
Special Unit Counter: There is one special unit, the Duke himself, "Wellington". He enters the game on game turn 2 by spending any red CD and placed on any allied unit. Once in play, he cannot exit the game. He doesn't have to enter the game. He has to be stacked with an Allied unit at all times. And confers a +1 to a CD and +1 to the DF to the unit that he is stacked with.
If the unit the Duke is stacked with is eliminated, the Duke is moved to another unit. If all Allied units are eliminated, the Duke of Wellington is captured and the game ends in a French victory. If the Duke is eliminated on a card draw of a black ace or king for combat, there is no adverse effect for the Allied player.
That's it, pretty much everything one would want to know about this game.
Play-Balance: This pbg, imho, is finely balance as "A Hard Pounding". Out of the 20 or so games played, the Allies won 60%, with the French winning 40%. Now some may say "well, thats not balance", but think about it, did the French really have a chance with such few battalions of the Guards attacking?
At Ligny, Napoleon used 19 Infantry btns (11 btns of Guards and 8 btns of Gerard's Corps), with 28 squadrons cavalry (4 squadrons. of Guard Cavalry and 24 squadrons of Cuirassiers) to break thru the Allies line and was successful.
At Waterloo on the western wing against the British (inc KGL) and Dutch, only 16 Infantry btns (8 btns of Guards and 8 btns of Donzelot's division), with 3-5 squadrons of cavalry (1-2 squadrons of Guard and 2-3 squadrons of Cuirassiers was used). This was not enough.
And on the eastern wing, fighting the Prussians in Plancenoit, 10 btns of Guards and 9 btns of Mouton's Corps with no cavalry was used and again, this was not enough.
In the battle, when the Guards broke thru the first line, they were spent, but the follow up Guard btns were almost as spent and just didn't have the men or stamina to carry the attack. Not enough men assign to the task at hand shows that fighting on two fronts is a solid and loud "Non!". And was Napoleon's biggest fear.
Which begs the question, "what if Napoleon had a B-52 at the Battle of Waterloo?"
Not sure what heading to use: I had two full paragraphs on possible strategies but you know, the game is small enough enough, you can come up with your own. Besides my non-ability not to win many of the games as the French disqualifies me from offering advice. :D
Summary: This is a sister pbg to "A Hard Pounding Fight", the battle for La Haye Sainte. There are many books written on the Battle of Waterloo. I have ten myself from the quint-essential bible on Napoleon "The Campaigns of Napoleon" by Dr Chandler to Scotty Bowden's masterpiece "Waterloo" and all in between. There are literately dozens of websites not only on Napoleon and the Battle of Waterloo, but on the different regiments, battalions, brigades, and other leaders. This time period is covered more than the Roman Empire or Germany versus Soviet Union. Games are very numerous too. For example, I have 15 board games, three sets of miniature rules, and the six pocket games. Though most tend to take hours (and hours and hours, and...) to play, these little pocket battle games take only 45 mins or less. A bargain these are and the price is right too.
It would be nice to see a six pbg series that all joined up on the Battle of Waterloo, like the four pbg games on Leipzig 1813 and using that scale.
I kept my line above as I got my wish - four different smaller battles in one large one (Waterloo). If one looks at the 4 different areas that Paul made as PBGs, then one can see the entire battle.
Now that is something....
-ab
This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.
And
I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that
are no longer on this blog. Long story, but it was Google who removed them.
Title: "A Hard Pounding Fight: The Battle for La Haye Sainte"
Price: $ Free with an order
or buy The Waterloo PBG Pack from ATO Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh
Graphics Designer: Mark Mahaffey
Publisher:LPS, Inc 2019
Subject: This PBG concerns the fight for the small walled farmhouse that was very crucial to the battle of Waterloo as it was in the center of the battlefield. Both Napoleon and Wellington made mistakes about this farmhouse during the battle. Napoleon failed to supply enough men to take the farmhouse earlier in the day and Wellington did not realize the importance of the farmhouse until almost too late.
Abbreviations used: AF = Attack Factor, DF = Defense Factor, MP = Movement Points, CD = Card Draw, ACT = Activations, PBG = Pocket Battle Game, "Allies" = British and KGL, FAm = French Artillery marker, and last the " > " is the Greater Than math symbol.
Scale: Honestly, this is not important for this game. But a quick guesstimate, if I may, considering that the infantry units can fire up to 2 hexes away, and they are using muskets (French), with the Allies using the Baker rifle, one could say that a hex is aprx 100 to 150 yards with the units representing from companies to possibly battalions. But this is really not important. Also note, no Cavalry. Though the Allies do have the horse battery, commanded by Lt Col "Sir" Hew Dalrymple Ross on that fateful day.
Complexity: Introductory!!!
Description of Play: Either player draws a card (CD). The color and type of card allows one player to activate up to 3 units. Once activated, the unit can either move 1 hex or preform fire combat or flip a unit over from a reduce state to full strength.
Note: If you have played ATO's pocket battle game #10 "La Garde, recule!", then you will know pretty much how to play this one.
Components and Physical Quality: Standard 4" x 6" postcard cardboard that LPS, Inc uses. Printing is very good. The rules along with a small player's aid listing the terrain with it's corresponding card modifiers and unit breakdown are on the backside with the game map on the front. Counters need to be cut out for playing.
Counters: The game only has 17 counters. Allies have eight and the French the same number and one game turn marker. Allied units are red with black lettering and the French are blue with white lettering.
Game Map: With the various shades of greens and browns used, my daughter said it looked surreal like a soft water colour painting, which means she likes it. I will take her word for it. On the game map are the setup and entry points for the units and the reinforcements, the terrain of the walled farm house and the important "sand pit". The game map also has the game turn track (down the left side for the French and the right side for the Allies).
Player added Component: Players will need a deck of cards, that is all that has to be provided.
Card Deck setup: The card deck is setup with all 9's and 10's being removed and one Joker added to the deck. A CD is perform with the French using black cards and Allies using red cards. An activation allows a unit to either move or perform fire combat. Each type of card does the following:
An even card allows up to two units to activate.
An odd card allows up to three units to activate.
Face card allows any one unit to activate or to flip one unit from reduced to full strength. And a black face card for the French allows (starting on game turn two) the French Artillery marker to be used in addition to moving 1 unit or flipping a reduce unit to full strength.
An ace is treated as a one or odd.
For combat when a face card is drawn, it is an automatic "miss", exception is Major Baring. He can be eliminated on a black ace or king. See "Special Unit Counters" below).
The Joker signals the end of the game turn when it is drawn for either activation or combat resolution, unless it is drawn before both sides have activated units. In this case, bury it and continue play until the end of the deck.
Note: Of course, High Flying Dice Games, has their own card set for this game, silly person for asking. Cost is $8 plus postage. Contact HFDG for
further information.Click here to go to HFDG for more info
Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10): This is like the Five for Fighting series of PBGs. I give it a 7 playing the French as the Allies can stay put and bring up more units to keep La Haye Sainte and the sand pit from falling to the French. Or play the French and take Haye Sainte from the KGL!
Versions/Scenarios: Only one version, no extra rules or scenarios. At least not yet. I have learned one thing about LPS, Inc, they usually have something up their sleeves in regards as an extra "Black Swan" type add-on for their subscribers (including the PBGs) via their ATO magazine. And no, not their armees!
Maybe this includes the three "Low Ammo" counters included on the die-cut counters sheet, along with the KIA message on the back of Major Baring's counter? And it does make me wonder too. However, for now, it is a mystery and shall remain as such until reveal sometime in the future by Steve, the LPS, Inc publisher.
Setup Time: Once everything is cut out, what, maybe 3 mins for setup? It will take longer to shuffle the card deck.
Playing Time: This one is quick. My games last 30 to 45 mins if that long. Maybe 45 mins to 1 hour to learn the game the first time, but after?
Rules: The rules are simple and flow nicely from the various areas of "Setup" to "Play" to "Combat" and to "Reinforcements". This is imho, a very well written set of rules. I found these rules to be very logical, concise, and short. Most important - NO ZONES OF CONTROL and combat is voluntary. Oops, sorry, just not having a ZOC excites me to no end! No stacking except for Major Baring. More on him, later.
Addenda: There is a tiny bit of addenda and here it is:
Under the Reinforcements section. It is mentioned that the French Artillery marker comes into play starting game turn "3". Wrong, as it is turn "2" just as it says on the counter. Easy fix, just "wite-out" and write in a "2".
Just a misspelling - Under Combat, 3 line, should be (but not through).
Infantry attacking 2 hexes away (non-adjacent) have a -2 CD modifier.
The Allied artillery unit, "Ross", when attacking adjacent French units has a +1 CD.
Just as for the wrong turn entry for the FAm (above), wite-out the mistakes and correct with a pen.
Note: Canister and Grape shot does hurt!
There might be more addenda or not, however, I don't believe there will be. The above will help keep those pesky French at bay.
Play: Play is very easy, almost as if the designer was using a formula that he perfected 20 years ago. :D Sweet. This game has the following:
Setup:
No stacking, except for Major Baring.
Play:
a card draw activates units for either moving 1 hex or fire combat.
and it doesn't matter who draws the card, as it is the color and type of card that depicts which unit(s) go.
Combat:
Units may fire up to 2 hexes away.
Inf have a -2 CD modifier if firing at an non-adjacent hex.
Allied Arty (Ross) if firing at a French unit in an adjacent hex has a +1 CD modifier.
French Arty marker adds +1 CD modifier to ALL French attacks for the turn.
Allies Major Baring adds +1 CD modifier for attacking and +1 DF for any Allied unit he is stacked with.
Sandpit and Hill terrain have a -1 CD modifier.
No firing thru other units, hills or La Haye Sainte, but can fire into such hexes.
To perform a combat resolution, the attacker picks out the lucky defending target.
A CD is performed, adding the card number to the AF of the firing unit.
Face cards are an outright miss (exception Major Baring and a black Ace or King, which eliminates him)
Ace is equal to 1.
Subtract the target's DF and any CD modifiers for range or terrain the defender is in.
A hit is scored on the defender if the final modified value is greater than the target units DF. If the unit was full strength, it is flipped over to it's reduced side. If the unit was reduced from before, it is eliminated and removed from play.
If the modified value is equal to or less than " < " the target's DF = No Effect.
Reinforcements:
Only the French receives reinforcements. There is a number on the lower right side that indicates the earliest turn the French reinforcement can arrive. They can always enter on later game turns. French units also have a arrival hex that they enter on.
The French Artillery marker enters play on turn 2, when a black face card is drawn. It will stay in use the entire turn and removed at the end of the turn. It can come back during the next turn when another black face card is drawn.
Game Length:
The game last up to 5 turns of card deck shuffles. Victory is dependent on the French securing their victory conditions - all 3 hexes of La Haye Sainte and the Sand Pit being free of Allied units. Otherwise the Allies win.
Special Unit Counters: There are two special units, the French Artillery marker (FAm) and Major Baring. Each will affect the combat CD for their respected side.
The FAm has been talked about to death above. Basically, I believe it represents Napoleon's "Grand Battery" of over 63+ artillery pieces he had at Waterloo.
Major Baring is the Allies special unit. He must always be in one of the three hexes that comprise La Haye Sainte. He cannot leave them. He confers a +1 CD to any unit he is stacked with when it fires and a +1 DF to the unit he is stacked with when defending. If the hex Major Baring occupies is fired upon, he is eliminated on a CD of either a black Ace or black King. Also, if there are no Allied units in one of the 3 hexes of La Haye Sainte, Major Baring is eliminated on any CD when fired upon.
That is it. Pretty much everything one would want to know about this game.
Play-Balance: The game is well, pretty darn even. Remarkable.
Summary: This is a "sister" pbg game to "La Garde, recule". There is only one difference and that is in the setup of the cards used for the card draw. This game shows how well the pocket battle game series are coming along. I believe that Paul just keeps honing his designer skills on each game he comes out with. Whether it is a big game like Vicksburg or a small pocket battle game like this one, his games just seem to get better.
It's the little things about these games, that Paul is including, such how in this case, the Grand Battery is depicted and used. Also, how Major Baring rallied and held his troops together to be a thorn in the side of the French (+1 CD and +1 DF). He started with aprx 400 men and by the time he was able to leave, he was down to aprx 42 men. (He would have won the MoH if he was an American for his actions at La Haye Sainte).
Graphic Designer Mark is showing good progress in his art skills, too. I still believe his graphic design on "Five for Fighting" series of PBGs is the cat's meow, especially the counters.
This game is fun. It is not a walk over for the French and can go either way, down to the end of game turn 5. The French have a tough job ahead of them to clear out all 4 hexes, the three of La Haye Sainte and the sand pit for victory by the end of turn 5. But it can be done. Wise use and a little luck with getting that French Artillery marker will make it a whole lot easier than without.
The Allies have to be careful not to let the French chew up too many of their units in the walled farm house. Major Baring is the key here, as
he was in the real battle. Watch out that you don't leave him by his lonesome, as he will surely perish.
It is said that Wellington was not the hero he has been made out to be for winning Waterloo. Considering that British troops only comprised about 35% of his forces and more than 65% of his troops spoke some type of German, that it is actually Germans who won this battle. I know that there were several important small battles that comprised the entire battle field (I was able to visit most back in the early 80's when stationed in West Germany), at least to me and a few others, the battle for La Haye Sainte has always been the most important. It was the center of the battlefield. If Napoleon had held it before the Prussians arrived on the field, he would have been able to take the Allied center. As it was, the King's German Legion commanded by Major Baring held the farm long enough to keep that from being a reality.
All in all, good gaming to you. I hope you will grab this little game and play it. If so, let me know what you think about it, as I am interested in hearing how you fare.
-ab
This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.
This review has been ongoing for a few months now. Different things keep jumping up and say "hey work on me now", so without any further excuses, on to this review.
Subject: The battle of Jiradi Pass at the beginning of the 6th Day War between Egypt and Israel on 6th June 1967 fought in the Sinai Desert between the remnants of the Egyptian 7th Infantry Division and Israel's Tal Armored Division.
Scale: Each hex is 500 meters across with each unit representing either a company (Egyptian) or a platoon (Israeli). Armor units are company in size (both sides). Note that since the game is on the 3rd battle for the Pass, most of the Egyptians were possible at platoon size due to the attrition from the previous Israeli attacks. I would consider this to be tactical, maybe grand-tactical in scope.
Game Area: The game map represents the desert terrain of the Jiradi Pass.
Player Supplied Components: The only thing a player needs to supply
is 2 dice, one for each player. That's it. Unlike many of High Flying
Dice Games, no cards are used for activating units for movement or
combat. It took me a few tries to get use to this, as I like the card
activation.
Components and Physical Quality: Graphics are "old school", however, I like old school. It sure beats this avant garde, new way of using the NATO symbols a lot of game graphic designers are doing these days. Easier to see for one thing. And for that reason, this game to me from the graphics to the game map, to the player's aid, and to the counters are top notch.
Everything is printed on stiff 11"x17" paper with the counters and player's aid on one side and the "8.5" x 11") game map on the other. 56 total counters that need to be mounted, cut out and the game map to be separate from the counters. You can leave the player's aid attached or cut it from the game map, your choice (I left mine attached). And of course if you prefer, when you purchase the game, you can have HFDG mount your counters for a small charge.
Counters: As mentioned before, I like the way Bruce used tank silhouettes for the armor and NATO symbols for the others - Infantry, Heavy Weapons, AT guns, and Artillery.
The colors used for the counters are very good with light green for the Egyptians and medium blue for the Israelis. Each counter except for the Egyptian Artillery (1) and the Israeli Aircraft (3) markers have their unit number on the upper right side of their symbols with an attack factor (aka the "fire combat factor"), range, and movement allowance. What's nice is the range factor is outline in white.
There are 17 Egyptian units and 19 Israeli units for play. Four infantry units of the 19 Israeli counters are for the "what if" scenario. One game turn counter and 19 "Disrupted" counters are also provided. All of the counters are single sided and .5" square in size.
Game Map: Small at 8.5" x 11", it is compact, but highly functional. Terrain is composed of sand, level 2 elevations, entrenchments (only Egyptians can use), crest hex-sides and roads.
Each different type of terrain affects movement, fire combat, close assault combat, and sight if using the advance rules.
Complexity (1 to 10): "1-3" introductory rated, but normal for High Flying Dice Games, complexity can be added via the optional advance rules. These optional rules can also be used to "even out" between the players different abilities. Very nice.
Gamer Versions/Scenarios: Clash of Lions has two scenarios - the historical battle and a "what if" that adds more Israeli units, a different victory point/win and boosting the complexity level up to a "3".
Setup Time: With such a low density of counters, about 5 mins. Grabbing a beer out of the fridge would take longer.
Playing Time: 30 mins to 60 mins for basic game. With advance rules, add 30 mins. And with the "what if" scenario add about 30 mins to 1 hour.
Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10): 8. Due to the low amount of counters involve in the game, no special rules are needed, just common sense. I also tend to use the Egyptians as the non-player as they don't really need to move (everything was well dug in, including the IS-3M (JS-3M's.)).
Rules: 3 freaking pages! That's right, just 3, not counting the cover. Actually it is 2.5 pages, but hey, who is counting! Well written. Everything is there, maybe not in a crazy bunny order, but they are there...
Addenda: Yes, we do have addenda...
Note: Though this is very moot, but to keep history correct the Israeli armor counters should be labled as M-48s, instead of M-60's as there were no M-60's used by Israel in the Six Day War. All, but one company of M-48's, were armed with a 90mm gun. This company was armed with the British 105mm and had a better chance (though not great) at damaging the flank or rear of the IS-3M but not the front (122mm of armor). For more information, please click here. It will take you to an excellent article written by a tanker, Major Warford, US Army, retired.
Description of Play (a.k.a 4.0 Sequence of Play): There are 10 turns to the game. Each turn is composed of the following-
Random Event Determination (see 4.1) - Both players roll 1D6 and add the numbers together to get the random event (see 9.0) number. This is where UAR Artillery and Israeli Air Support comes into play (sorry, bad pun).
Initiative Determination (see 4.2) - Both players roll 1D6 and add their morale number (see 6.0) to each roll. The player with the highest total wins the initiative and performs the first set of operations for the turn. (Note: On the 1st game turn, the Israeli player gets the initiative).
Operations Phase (see 4.3) - Players move and fight their units by performing alternating sets of "impulses".
The player with the initiative rolls 1D6 and that is the number of units that can either move (see 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3) and perform "Close Assault Combat" (CAC) (see 7.2, 7.3, 7.4) since CAC is part of movement or perform "Fire Combat" (see 7.0, 7.1, 7.3, 7.4) for the first impulse.
After the player has moved or attacked, then the second player rolls 1D6 and performs the same as above. If any player has any remaining units that have not moved or fired, the first player rolls 1D6 for the second impulse or next set of units to move or fire, etc.
The Operations Phase ends when both players have moved or fired their units or both pass.
To recap, a unit can either move or fire, not both unless it is performing a CAC as part of it's movement.
End Phase (see 4.4) - Following the conclusion of the Operations Phase,
all units with a "Disrupted Marker" can attempt to "Rally" to recover to normal status (see 8.0).
If this is not the last turn of the game, advance the Game Turn marker one space and repeat Random Event Determination (see 4.1).
If it is the last turn of the game, players calculate the number of Victory Points they have earned to determine who has won the game (see 10.0, 10.1).
Other Parts of the Rules: There are Zones of Control (see 5.2) and stacking (see 5.3) is allowed. Morale (see 6.0) plays a huge part in the game. Units can become "Disrupted" (see 7.3) due to combat (highly important). Units can retreat (see 7.4) and don't forget about rally (8.0).
Combat (see 7.0, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 12.1, 12.2): There are two types of combat, Fire Combat and Close Assault Combat that occurs during movement.
Fire Combat (FC) (see 7.1 & 12.1):
If a unit is undistrupted, it may fire upon an enemy combat unit when activated.
Fire Combat can only be used by units that do not move.
Enemy units must be within range and have a clear "line of sight" (LOS).
The attacking player rolls 1D6 and modifies the roll for each of the following:
+1 modifier if defending unit is on higher elevation.
+1 if defending unit is behind a crest hex side.
+1 if defending unit is in an entrenchment hex (Egyptian Only).
-1 if defending unit is in an adjacent hex.
If using optional rule 12.1: +1 if Israeli unit moved and fired (this optional rule supersedes 7.1).
If using optional rule 12.2: -1 if firing unit qualifies for a flank shot.
If the modified DR is less than or equal ( < ) to the Attacking units Fire Combat Factor, the defending unit (target) is hit. A non-disrupted unit (i.e. normal status) becomes "Disrupted" and receives a Disruption marker. A disrupted unit must make a Morale check (see 6.3. See I said that is important :P ).
Close Assault Combat (CAC)(see 7.2, 7.4):
Friendly undisrupted units may enter an enemy-occupied to engage in Close Assault Combat.
Since this is part of movement, CAC can only be initiated by units that have not engaged in fire combat, earlier in the turn.
Disrupted units may defend in CAC, but at a disadvantage.
To resolve CAC, both players total the combat factor of their units in the hex and each roll 1D6 (note - Egyptian AT have a combat factor of 1 during CAC):
The attacker modifies the DR for each of the following:
+1 if ALL of the attackers morale level is higher than the defenders.
-1 if any of the attackers morale level is lower than the defender's.
-1 if the attacking units moved from a level 1 hex to a level 2 (i.e. attacked uphill).
The defender modifies their DR for each of the following:
+1 if the defender's units morale level are higher than the attackers.
-1 if any of the defender's morale level is lower than the attacker's.
+1 if the defender is occupying an entrenchment hex.
The player with the highest total wins and
the losing side's units are retreated 1 hex (see 7.4)
and once a CAC is resolved, those activated units used for this are finished for the turn.
Whew, that's it for combat!
Play-Balance: This is a tricky question. Is the game a walk over for the Israeli's or not. In the actual battle, the
training, knowledge of the land, knowing one's equipment, and one's belief in what one is doing, allowed the Israelis an edge to win a battle
against a foe who had modern equipment, dug in and fortified, but poorly lead. The game is close. It is not an easy walk over for Israel and a
victory can be so easily snatched away. When a game is like this, I would say that the play balance is spot on.
Summary: Highly recommended. Great for a fast playing game. I like this game. It isn't perfect, no game is, but it is very, very, good. It has a small game map, low amount of counters, sensible short rules. Graphics are in a style I like.
One will have to pay attention and not play haphazardly as the Israeli. The use of die rolls to see who and how many units can activate is different (for me) from using cards for activation and it did take me a few turns to get use to this new fangled approach to gaming (lol, just joking). The "what if" scenario adds more infantry to the Israeli side to show what would have happened if Israel had delayed their attack to wait for the infantry. Optional rules are common sense that can add to the game, while not increasing the time for play and the added complexity is just a little bit more. These optional rules are also good to handicap a veteran player against a less experience player.
Well, that's about it. Grab the game, it is a keeper! For such a small game I find it is fun, heart stopping and made me think - I had to plan before the game started. As mentioned before, the game is not a snoozer and one has to pay attention to their game play. Otherwise, unlike Israel, you may lose this important battle to open up a supply line and the northern road, which in all likelihood, may lose the whole war. Yes, that is how important this one battle was.
-ab out
This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct
errors or update with new information.
Hopefully you took advantage of ATO's 75th Anniversary of D-Day commemoration
and get all five of their latest Pocket Battle game set? I sure did and
here's my take...
A few weeks ago, all the free world (except Google) celebrated the 75th anniversary of one of the most spectacular, largest, and important invasions in all of history, "Operation Overlord", the return of the European allies along with the Americans to the European continent 6th June 1944. Notice, I didn't include the Soviet Union as they were on the other side of Germany and to be honest, doing just fine right where they were.
In honor of this, Against the Odds magazine released a new pocket battle game set (series) of where Operation Overlord began with the 5 beach landings code-named "Operation Neptune" (commonly known as D-Day) - Utah (#21), Omaha (#22), Gold (#23), Juno (#24), and Sword (#25). This series is design by one of the most prolific game designers I have ever known, Paul Rohrbaugh.
Title: Five For Fighting Series Games and Campaign Rules to link all 5 together.
Price:NEW - You can purchase all five PBGs from ATO for $21.95 (US), $31.95 (others). Click here. Tell 'em that you saw this here. Also, the Five for Fighting PBGs is still being offered individually as freebie
choices starting on from ATO. Good news as they are excellent.
Note: there is a now available the 2nd edition of these five pocket battle games.
Corrects spelling on the game boards and the little bit of errata they
had.
Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh Graphics Designer: Mark Mahaffey Developer: Against The Odds (ATO) magazine Publisher: LPS, Inc Published Date: June 2019
Subject: D-Day beach landings
Scale: The game, time scale and unit size is not given. However, after asking the designer, I received the following: "The game's scale for a hex is a little less than a half mile across. Units are regiments/brigades (infantry) or battalions/KG/BG (armor and paratrooper). The games represent the first day, so a turn is about 2 hours of time".
Abbreviations used: AF = Attack Factor, DF = Defense Factor, MP = Movement Points, CD = Card Draw, ACT=Activations.
Map Area: Each pocket game covers one of the five beaches from Utah to Sword. Utah and Omaha are separate while Gold, Juno, and Sword can be combined. Please see the campaign linking rules for more information.
Components and Physical Quality: Each Pocket Battle game is 4"x 6" on very nice, coated cardboard, printed nicely on the front and back. Counters will need to be cut out unless one gets the die cut counters (hint- do it).
Player added Components: Players will need for each game, 2D6 and a deck of cards. For the Campaign, only 1D6 and 1 deck of cards is used, not 5 decks. To be honest, I have not found where any dice is used in the separate beach landing pocket games, as movement and combat is resolved by a card draw. I do know 1D6 is used as the game turn indicator. However, in the Campaign linked rules, a 1D6 is used in several places for random events, Duplex Drive tanks, etc, as a Game Turn track is provided.
Card Deck setup: The card deck is setup with all 9's and 10's being removed and one Joker added to the deck. For the Campaign game, two Jokers are used. Germans use black cards and Allies use red cards. An activation allows units or stacks to activate (1 for the German or 3 for the Allies with odd numbered card draw, 2 for both sides with an even card draw). Face cards of the correct color allow either side to use their Artillery Support or Naval Support marker or flip a reduced unit back to full strength. Yes, this will be mentioned several more times.
Note: High Flying Dice Games, has their own card set for this set of games (or each individual), Cost is $* plus postage. Contact HFDG for further information.Click here to go to HFDG for more info
Complexity (1 to 10): "1". This is not the end all of D-Day games, but a fun, small, and easy to play series of well thought out games and a campaign.
Game Versions/Scenarios: There are no additional scenarios, however there are the campaign linking rules which increase the play value by adding random events and a couple of optional rules such as Duplex Drive tanks and what I like to call "Hitler finally listen to Rommel" setup but officially known as the "Variable Free German Setup".
Under this optional rule there are variant units and reinforcements for both sides (airborne units for the Allies, Lehr Panzer and some other infantry for the Germans) that I found. The variant counters have a "V" on the upper right side. Nicely done as die-cut counters make the pocket battle games that much better.
Those folks at ATO are rascals! Here is the Five For Fighting extra rules, including the extra for the Allies.Click Here to go there.
Setup Time: Subjective, 5 to 10 mins for one game, 15+ mins for the setup of the campaign game if game pieces are separated into a gaming tray (ATO sells some nice trays btw).
Playing Time: Again, subjective, from 30 mins to 45 mins per pocket game to 90+ mins, if playing the campaign game.
Solitaire Play-ability (Scale 1 to 10): "5", as the game wasn't designed for solo play, but like anything else, one can play it that way. Just don't cheat :}
Rules: Are very well written. If anyone can write rules for these pocket games, it is ATO.
Play-Balance: The game series is very balanced. Just like the real deal, the Allies could have lost and can do so in this game series.
Errata:Note the following please - The German AT and Infantry attack CD values are reversed in the rules. They should be:
Infantry attacking a target in a non-adjacent hex: -1 CD
AT unit attacking an armor target in any hex: +1 CD
There might be more errata or not, however I don't believe there will be. The above will help keep those pesky nazi's at bay.
Description of Play: Play is very easy as each game has the following (with the one exception being Sword Beach, noted below):
Setup
Game Play
Combat
Combined Arms Bonus
Artillery and Naval Support Markers
Game Length
Victory Conditions
German Reinforcements (Only Sword Beach game has reinforcements, this being the 21st Panzer Division) (note - there is an optional rule and variant units for the Campaign game that allows even more reinforcements, but for the single game, this is it.)
Game Play: is based on what card is drawn with the color and type of the card (odd or even or face card) regulating what can be done - i.e., move, fire combat, used for flipping a reduce unit or using Artillery (German) / Naval (Allies) support. For example if a Red 2 is drawn the Allies may activate up to two units.
Special 1st turn: This needs to be mentioned. Before the first card is drawn and after setup, the Allies go first and get 2 activations. This simulates the actual beach landings. After this event, the card deck is drawn from.
Activation allows a player to either move or have fire combat, but not both. A unit can only have one activation per CD. The exception to movement or fire combat is a "face card". A face card allows a player to either use their artillery/naval support OR flip one reduced unit back to full strength. Eliminated units may never return to play.
There are no Zones of Control.
Movement points of all units on both sides is 1 hex per activation. Hexes occupied by enemy units cannot be entered, nor can stacking limits be violated. A player can stack one infantry unit with either one armor or one anti-tank unit for a combine arms bonus. All sea hexes cannot be entered.
The cost of movement for all terrain is 1 MP even across rivers. The various terrain outside of all sea hexes doesn't affect movement, only combat. This terrain being "Clear", "Beach" (-1 DF), "Hill" (+1 DF), "River" (-1 AF), "Road", "Villages", and "Strongpoints" (+1 DF).
Combat: is pretty easy and straight forward. No dice are rolled, but instead a card is drawn (color or suite of card has no bearing, except if a face card is drawn, it is always considered a miss). Units can fire into, but not through Hills, Villages, Strongpoints, or other units, friendly or not. Attacking is voluntary and is done one to one, by a single attacking unit against a single defending unit. The only exception to this is a Combine Arms stack may combine their AF for attacking. However, a Combine Arms stack may not combine their DF for defending and each unit in a stack defends separately. All terrain AF/DF modifiers and card draw modifiers are cumulative.
To resolve combat, the firing player performs a CD, don't worry about color or if the card is odd/even, unless the CD is a face card (a miss). Add the AF of the single unit or combine arms stack to the card number, then add or subtract the terrain modifier for the hex the firing unit is in.
Besides the "terrain Modifiers" there are these additional modifiers, that are added or subtracted to the attacker's card draw -
all infantry units have a -1 CD if firing at a non-adjacent hex.
Armor unit have a -1 CD if firing at an adjacent hex.
German AT units have a +1 CD at all ranges when firing at Allied armor.
These numbers get added or subtracted for the final Attacker's CD number.
Subtract the defending unit's DF and add/subtract it's terrain modifiers. If the final number is ">" (greater) than the modified defender's DF, the unit is "hit" and is flipped over, if it has two steps. If the defending unit has only one step, it is eliminated from the game.
However, if a unit has 2 steps and is already reduce, instead of being eliminated, it may retreat one hex, towards a beach hex for the Allies or away from the beach for the German. The retreating unit may not violate stacking limits. Other units in the hex are unaffected by any results suffered and must be separately attack (note - combine arms stacks). A few times using this system was required for me to get use to it but it became second nature.
Artillery or Naval Support: is also easy, as any enemy unit on the map anywhere, can be attacked this way. When a correct color face card is drawn and the owning player decides to used their arty/naval support, the marker is placed on the game map on any enemy unit. Perform a CD, adding the +1 CD bonus on the marker, minus the target units DF and terrain modifiers. If the final modified CD value is ">" (greater than) the target's DF, then the target was hit. Either eliminate the enemy unit if it was a 1 step or flip it over if the target was full strength. It never came up, but if the target is already reduced, can it be retreated instead? I say "yes", but I will ask this question and get back here with the answer..
Game length: 5 turns or 5 shuffles of the card deck. And a game turn ends when the joker is turned up. Of course the joker is ignored if neither side has had an activation and play continues to the end of the deck. Use a 1D6 to record the number of game turns, by placing the 5 spots up, then going down each time the deck is shuffled.
In the Campaign game, two Jokers are used. The first time a Joker is drawn, consult the Random Events Table. The second time a Joker is drawn, the game turn is over.
Victory conditions: are primarily on the Allied Player. The Allies win the game if all German Strongpoints and all but one village hex were last occupied by the Allied player. Also each Allied unit that exits the game map from the South edge before the last turn of the game, reduces the number of villages that need to be occupied. Of course they can't re-enter the game.
Any other result is a German win, where-by the Soviets after they steam rolled into Berlin, then liberate the rest of western Europe under Communism, there-by changing the cold war and world as we know it. A very grim future for Europe and the world.
Of course the Campaign has a slightly different version of the victory conditions based on winning the number of beaches (each card): The Allies:
Win 5 out of 5, Decisive Victory.
Win 4 out of 5, Major Victory.
Win 3 out of 5, Minor Victory
Win 2 out of 5, Minor Defeat
Win 1 out of 5, Major Defeat
Win 0 out of 5, Decisive Defeat
Evaluation: The Pocket Battles series of games have matured thru-out the years, with this series being at present, IMHO, the pinnacle of these games. What started out as a challenge to use up a bunch of blank postcards has turned into a game craze that should have the big guys worried.
Soapbox: There are a lot of good ideas in this series of games. I am always impressed at how Paul comes up with new games while re-cycling the card draw system.
I honestly believe that this is probably the best way to put the fog of war into a game. I have heard that some don't care for this as the game moves too slow for them. But honestly, in war, does one side sit patiently waiting while the other side gets to move all of their troops and plan out to the perfect die roll with the right amount of combat factors for an over run to get the odds up to 7-1 for a sure kill? I think not.
Outside of having some one take pot-shots at players, arty going off with aircraft screaming overhead, there is no way to simulate a war. But, I believe the card draw system comes closest.
NOTE - As noted from an email from ATO, these PBGs are being offered, starting May 1 as individual freebies.
History: Everyone knows of this invasion. It was that important. And if you don't know of it (like Google) then you need to read up on it.
Summary: That's it, I have enjoyed not only playing all 5 beach landing games, but also the campaign. Omaha beach was the toughest for me, but I was able to pull 3 wins out of 5. I can blame it on the cards. Utah Beach was the easiest as it was on 6th of June, 5 out of 5 wins. Gold and Juno were next easiest with 5 out of 5, though I did have a few moments of agony. Sword Beach, I won 4 out of 5 as the 21st Panzer activated and it hurt. I don't see how the Brits managed to beat back that armor division.
Speaking of, High Flying Dice Games, does have a small game out called "Nemesis" and it is reviewed on this blog. Here is the link.
In this review, I wrote about having D-Day as 5 to 6 small games. I got my wish. The 6th beach landing game would be Operation Dragoon, the invasion of southern France. Not available, but hopefully, maybe....
The campaign game was tough, especially using the Duplex Drive tank rule. Too many tanks sank to the bottom of the Channel with their crews. The game is not an Allies walk-over. Just like the real landing, it is touch and go for the Allies, but we pulled it off. Thank God, we pulled it off.
Addendum: And to all the brave soldiers, sailors, airmen and civilians that perished that day, 75 years ago, it was not in vain and thank you. And good-bye Vera.
-ab updated: 25th June 2019 1 July 2019, April 2020, June 2020
This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct
errors or update with new information. And
I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that
are no longer on this blog. Long story, but it was Google who removed them.
Title: Race for Manila Price: $*
Designer: Yasushi Nakaguro (2012) Publisher: War Drum Game, (2018)
US Seller: Quarterdeck International Games
Subject and Scale: A game about the Japanese invasion of the Philippines in 1941. Scale looks to be grand operational scale as one doesn't worry about supply. The Imperial Japanese Army (IJA) units are Regimental in size while the U.S. Army Forces of Far East (units comprised of US Army and Filipino personal (Allies) are divisional in size, except two - the 45th Infantry Battalion and the most famous of all Filipino Regiments, the US 26th Cavalry (Horse) Regiment. This was the last of the US Army Horse Cavalry and actually the best trained and equipped military unit in the Philippines. (note - not my view, but that of the US Army and General Staff and the Philippine Government).
Map Area: Majority of the island of Luzon, Philippines.
Components and Physical Quality: Components include some of the nicest mounted counters, I have ever seen. They must be laser cut, Jack pointed out to me that these counters are not laser cut, but very well die cut as the counters fall out of the the tree, very easy. They are 15mm in size, very good for those of us with large hands to grasp and move about. No clean up is needed. Counters are single-sided.
The counters include seven IJA units, nine Allied units, one game turn marker, seven "Fatigued" markers and three variable victory conditional markers for each side.
The game map is aprx 10 1/8" by 14 5/16" in size and very well done. Each hex is 20mm and not overly big. Hexes are outline in white, with the IJA beachheads (where the IJA units can land as they are off map in the IJA Holding Box). The Allies setup hexes are printed directly on the game map. Ports, towns, Manila city, airfields, and of course Corregidor, are printed on the game map.
Included are the game rules and an errata 1.1 sheet. The top half of the sheet (for possible gluing to the game map) has the various game charts (such as terrain and CRT) in English. Be aware that this sheet is not the same size of the area to cover, so I just kept it separate. Also on this same sheet are a few lines of errata.
There is also either Hanzi or Kanji (Kanji is the Japanese name for the Chinese writing (Hanzi). Words may be written the same, but they are pronounce very differently) written on the game map and rather than distract, it adds to the game, imho.I don't know which as the game was originally from Japan and then picked up by a Chinese wargame company. I have to plead ignorance here as I am not a fluid speaker of Hanzi or Kanji.
Complexity (scale of 1 -10): The game is rated as introductory. Once playing of the game has started, one will realized it is anything but introductory. I give this a "3" as the Allied player will be thinking and planning.
Gamer Versions/Scenarios: There is only one version of the game, with no additional scenarios.
Setup Time: About 10 minutes, if that long. One will take more time trying to open the beer than setting up.
Playing Time: My games ran anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple of hours.
Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10): 5 to 7. Not very well suited for solo play due to the use of the three variable victory condition markers on both sides. One could always just blindly pick the other side's variable victory condition marker and play where the non-human side must move towards the nearest enemy unit, but what fun is that? This is one of those games where two players are needed. But where there is a will, there is a way and I would be interested in hearing from you on how you solo this game.
update - changed to a 7. I found a way to play solo.😊
Rules: The rules are four pages in length, in English, and are satisfactory. Since they are translated, they are a little rough in a few areas, but reading thru them a few times will make sense of what is being said. There are nine cases (i.e. "headings") from the "Intro" to "Combat" with good examples of play where needed. And if you have a problem, Jack Greene is only an email away and he will cheerfully answer your questions.
Play-Balance: The game, of course, highly favors the Japanese. Out of my 10 games, the IJA player won 90% (yup, that's right, 9 out of 10 times).
Description of Play: On Game Turn 1, only the IJA players has a turn (rule 5.3.1). From game turn 2 to the end, play is as follows:
Allied Player
Either Movement phase or Combat phase. (yes, one or the other)
Recovery Phase.
IJA Player
1st Movement phase or Combat phase.
2nd Movement phase or Combat phase. Cannot conduct same phase two times in a row in a player's turn (ex - two movements in the same turn).
Recovery Phase
Air Combat Phase (see rule 4.3)
That's it. And yes, The IJA player has 2 movement/combat phases and a few other surprises, such as not being one hit kills (an IJA unit can take several hits before being removed from play). In addition, there is no stacking of units.
Other Games Possibly Available: After much searching, I have a found a few other games on this same subject, where the 1941 Japanese campaign for the Philippines is the main subject and not an offshoot of a strategic Pacific War game. Here they are-
Bushido Denied
is a wargame of the WWII campaign fought for the control of the
Philippine Islands from January to May, 1942. Bushido Denied is
actually two games in one package, one game covers the Bataan Campaign
and the other game on the battle for Corregidor. You can play them
separately or combined to cover the entire campaign. By High Flying
Dice Games. Includes two 11"x17" game maps, 16 pages of rules, a Player's Aid Chart, 286 double sided counters. Cost is $20.95. How did I miss this game, I do not know. Mea culpa.
The Damned Die Hard by HMS/GRD (European) A game in the Glory series that covers the 1941-42 campaign for the Philippines. The new operational and tactical naval system will be used in the game. Includes separate smaller-scale Bataan
scenario (on its own map) and several ‘what-if’ scenarios that explore possibilities of varied additional reinforcements for both sides. Includes 9 quarter-size maps, 3 counter sheets (840 counters). Price: $65 Product #911 (and lots of $$$ for shipping from Europe, just warning ya)
The Battle for the Philippines: Bataan (1973) by Balboa Game Co (out of print and I don't believe Balboa is in business anymore).
Bataan! is an operational-level game of the 1942 battles on the Bataan peninsula of the Philippines in WWII. Uneven player turns and Special
Events, determined by random chit-pulls, combine to create a tense, hard-fought campaign. By Compass Games (unfortunately. out of print).
MacArthur: The Road to Bataan covers the battle of Luzon Island during the winter of 1941-1942. Paper Wars Issue 90, still available. Thank you Jack for pointing this one out.
If there are any other games that cover the invasion of the Philippines 1941 and just not Corregidor, I would be happy to hear about them.
History of the Invasion: I amnot going to go into the history, as anybody who plays WWII games will have at least one or two if not more, books on this particular subject. And if you don't, click on the link to the left, it will take you to the US Army Center of Military History Online where you can read up on the invasion and battlein CMH pub 72-3. BTW, that is public domain and you can download the .pdf for free. Plus it is very well written.
Evaluation: Though the game came out a few years ago, it is one of "those" type of games that just doesn't go out of style or play. And in this latest edition, I believe more people will have access to this game. The graphics are well done. The rules are good, as is the game's concept. I am giving this game an 8 out of 10. Beautiful graphics, game map, counter, etc. Rules that are good. Honestly, one can't go wrong with this little gem.
Summary: The Allies will get walked over and beaten most of the time. Depending on how each side picks one of their victory condition markers will depend on the Allied victory or not. Historic, yeah, but not fun. However, this is actually good, as it is not one of those games that is easily figured out. It will make one think.
There is a rule called "MacArthur takes Command" (rule 5.3) that allows the Allied player to have a secondary movement or combat just like the IJA player, except the Allied player can preform the same phase twice in a row (i.e. two movements or combats for example), but only once from turn 3 onward. And this takes the sting out of lack of movement and combat like the IJA player has. There is another rule that comes into possible play on game turn 5. This is the Allies declaring Manila as an "Open City" (rule 8.4). This allows the Allies one extra movement point and Allies can use the infiltration movement (rule 6.2.3) like the IJA player. And I failed to mention that in case of a tie in victory points, the Allies still win.
About the only quibble spots I have is the weakness (both combat and movement) of the Allied units and the non-ability to move and have combat once, much less twice.
Of course, the non-ability to both move and have combat for the Allied player, could show the lack of equipment, whether transport or prime movers and/or the age of equipment and/or lack of training of the Allies in the Philippines and the training of the Japanese troops. Up to this point the Allies had not fought a major war for 23 years, while the Japanese units in the game are seasoned. And for this reason, I can understand why the rules and combat factors and movement allowances are the way they are.
Though General MacArthur was making himself a pain in the butt to the Chiefs of Staff in the US with requests for more troops and equipment, including tanks, since he took over command in the summer of 41 and was getting them, there just wasn't enough time to receive the personnel or train them to a higher combat readiness. It was also believed that the Japanese would not invade until April or May of 1942.
But, I do disagree about the 26th Cav Regt's movement allowance, as this unit was the most trained, mobile, and professional of all the units (Filipino and US) in the U.S. Army Forces of Far East. If the Japanese can have a movement allowance (ma) of 4 with bicycles, then the 26th should have a ma of 4 with horses, if not more and be able to both move and attack.
The die roll at the end of a game turn for Air Combat simulates in a very easy manner on whether the Japanese can move their aircraft out of this theater of war to another. Even though the Japanese totally destroyed the Allied air, they couldn't take a chance that they didn't. To keep the IJA player on their toes, VP is awarded for remaining Allied airfields until they have all been captured.
Neither side can afford to be lazy. The Allied player must plan and make the IJA player pay for every hex they take. The "MacArthur takes Command" rule, as well as "Open City" for Manila can be a boon for the Allies and the bane of the IJA. The IJA player must plan out his strategy and be willing to modify his/her plans when Turns 3 and 5 take place. Regardless, the capture of the Allied airfields will deny victory points to the Allied player.
For it's price, and honestly, the lack of counters (I like very low counter games), and the simple but elegantly thought out rules, make this game a steal.
Yes, please do note this is a new format and one I will be using from now on. Let me know if you enjoy it or not.
Here is a graphic of additional units that I made for the game. War Diary magazine put them in an issue! WOW, an honor for me. If you use, remember that they are copyrighted, not for sale, but you can give them away.
-ab out
Note: updated Oct 3, 2019 to add an addition Philippine game. Keep them coming!!!! Updated May7, 2019 for English and to clarify a couple of thoughts.
This blog is considered to be a
living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct
errors or update with new information. And
I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that
are no longer on this blog. Long story, but it was Google who removed them.
