17.10.22

Wild Blue Yonder on the Air pod cast 19

Rarely do I listen to pod casts of any nature.  I found this one by accident while researching information on US Army Air Force airfields during WW2. 

It is interesting and though this is from the AF Air University's Wild Blue Yonder Online Journal, a haven for officers, anyone can use, read, or listen.

This particular pod cast is with Mr. Bae on Wargaming. What they talk about is gaming more so than just one or two people playing on a board or using a small amount of miniatures, but gaming to possibly win (remember the sci-fi novelette (later a book and series) "Ender's Game" by Orson Scott Card?) a war.

Without further interference from me, here is the url for an interesting read and listening from Mr Bae on Wargaming. And I need to mention the following: 

The views and opinions expressed or implied in WBY (or this blog) are those of the authors and should not be construed as carrying the official sanction of the Department of Defense, Air Force, Air Education and Training Command, Air University, or other agencies or departments of the US government or their international equivalents.

Wild Blue Yonder on the Air - Ep. 19 - Mr. Sebastian Bae on Wargaming (link to page) 

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.

23.6.22

Barring the Gate: The battle for Château d'Hougoumont

Closing the Gates at Hougoumont, 1815

Yes, another small pocket game, Against the Odds Pocket Battle Game #27 "Barring the Gate: The Battle for Château d'Hougoumont", the French morning assault on the fortified position of the Château d'Hougoumont, Battle of Waterloo, 18 June 1815.

The fighting at Hougoumont has often been characterized as a diversionary attack to draw in Wellington's reserves which escalated into an all-day battle and drew in French reserves instead.

In fact there is a good case to believe that both Napoleon and Wellington thought that holding Hougoumont was key to winning the battle. Hougoumont was a part of the battlefield that Napoleon could see clearly, and he continued to direct resources towards it and its surroundings all afternoon (33 battalions in all, 14,000 troops).

Similarly, though the house never contained a large number of troops, Wellington devoted 21 battalions (12,000 troops) over the course of the afternoon in keeping the hollow way open to allow fresh troops and ammunition to reach the buildings. He moved several artillery batteries from his hard-pressed center to support Hougoumont, and later stated that "the success of the battle turned upon closing the gates at Hougoumont". (wiki/battle of Waterloo)

Title: Barring the Gate: The Battle for Château d'Hougoumont
Price: $0 free with a purchase
Series: ATO PBG #27
Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh
Graphics Designer: Mark Mahaffey
Publisher: LPS, Inc
Published Date: 2021

Subject: This pbg concerns the morning French assault on the Hougoumont. 

Abbreviations used:  AF = Attack Factor, DF = Defense Factor, MP = Movement Points, CD = Card Draw, ACT = Activations, PBG = Pocket Battle Game, ASA = Assault Staging Area, DR = Die Roll.

Scale:  A quick guesstimate, if I may, considering that the infantry units can fire up to 2 hexes away,  a hex is aprx 100 yards with the units representing battalions.  But, this is really not important. 

Complexity:  Introductory!!!

Description of Play:  Either player draws a card (CD). The color and type of card allows one player to activate up to 1 to 3 units. Once activated, depending on the card, the unit can either move one hex or preform fire combat or flip a unit over from a reduce state to full strength. 
 
The die is used by the British player to see if hits against a British unit in the Chateau hex are effective. Roll 1D6. If the DR is < units DF, the unit is not reduce. If the DR is > units DF, it is flipped or eliminated if already flipped.

Note: If you have played TSP's pbg #5, "A Hard Pounding" or ATO's "La Garde Recule" #10, then you will know how to play this one.  

Components and Physical Quality:  The game comes as a standard size 4" x 6" postcard cardboard. The card is very nice and can take a lot of plays.  Printing is very good. The rules along with a small player's aid listing the terrain with it's corresponding card modifiers and unit breakdown are on the backside with the game map on the front.  Counters need to be cut out for playing.

Counters: The game only has 15 counters. Allies have 7 infantry unit counters that start the game. The French have 8 counters with 6 starting the game in the ASA and 2 units starting in the ASA at the start of the 3rd Assault Period and one Assault marker. Allied units are red (British) with black lettering and the French are blue with white lettering.  
 
Note: There are no differences between Guard units and regular line (foot) infantry.

Game Map:  For such a small game map it is well design. I can see why LPS, Inc uses Mark as their GD.  

Player added Component:  Players will need to provide a normal deck of cards and 1 D6.  

Card Deck setup:   Shuffle a standard card deck with 1 Joker,  A CD is perform with the French using black cards and Allies using red cards.  An activation allows a unit to either move or perform fire combat.

Each type of card does the following:
  • An even CD allows up to two units to activate.  
  • An odd CD allows up to three units to activate. 
  • A face card CD allows one unit to activate or to flip one unit from reduced to full strength.
  • An Ace is treated as a one for combat or odd for activation.
  • For combat when a face card is drawn, it is an automatic "miss".
  • The Joker signals the end of the game turn when it is drawn for either activation or combat resolution, unless it is drawn before both sides have activated units. In this case, bury it and continue play until the end of the deck.
La Garde, recule! card deck

Note: Of course, High Flying Dice Games, has their own card set for this game. Click on the .jpg to the right to go to the card sets.  And yes, it is the same for La Garde, recule.  Basically each of the 3 pbg in this series all use the same card setup. 

Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10):  This is like A Hard Pounding.  I give it a 7.  It can be played as solitaire, as just about any game can. 

Versions/Scenarios:  Only one version, no extra rules or scenarios.

Setup Time:  Once everything is cut out, what, maybe 3 mins for setup? It will take longer to shuffle the card deck.

Playing Time:  This one is quick.  My games last 30 to 45 mins if that long. Maybe 45 mins to 1 hour to learn the game the first time, but after?

Rules:  The rules are simple and flow nicely from the various areas of "Setup" to "Play" to "Combat" and to "Reinforcements".  After looking over and playing this little game, I found these rules to be very logical, concise, and can see why all 3 PBGs on Waterloo plays so well. Most important - NO ZONES OF CONTROL and combat is voluntary. 

Addenda:  "none" as I can't find any.

Description of Play:  Play is very easy, almost as if the designer was using a formula that he perfected in the past, sweet. This game has the following:
  • Setup:
    • 7 British units setup in any light red or medium green coloured hexes. 
    • 6 French units (6th and 9th Divisions) setup in the bluish ASA area.
    • No stacking
  • Play:
    • A card draw (CD) activates units for either moving 1 hex or fire combat.
    • It doesn't matter who draws the card, as it is the color and type of card that  depicts which unit(s) are activated.
  • Combat:
    • Units may fire up to 2 hexes away.
    • Infantry have a -2 CD modifier if firing at a non-adjacent hex.
    • Terrain on combat
      • Wooded or Orchard terrain has a -1 CD modifier.
      • Chateau has a -2 CD and a DR check (see above under "Description of Play").
      • No firing thru other units, Chateau, or woods, but can fire into such hexes.
  • To perform a combat resolution, the attacker picks out the lucky defending target.
    • a CD is performed (any color or suite is used), adding this to the AF. 
      • Subtract the DF and hex terrain and/or range.
      • Face cards are an outright miss. 
      • A hit is scored on the defender if the final modified value is greater ">"than the target units DF. 
        • If the unit was full strength, it is flipped over to it's reduced side. 
        • If the unit was reduced from before, it is eliminated and removed from play.
    • If the modified value is less than or equal to " < " the target's DF:  No Effect.
  • Reinforcements:
    • Only the French receives reinforcements. 2 French units (5th Division) enter at the start of the 3rd Assault Period.
Game Length: The game can last up to 6 turns of card deck shuffles. The French immediately wins if there are no British units left in both Chateau hexes. The British wins the game if the French fail to achieve victory by the end of the last turn.

Special Unit Counter:  There are no special counters. 

That's it, pretty much everything one would want to know about this game. 

Play-Balance:  This pbg, imho, is finely balance as any pbg. Out of the 20 or so games played, the Allies won 55%, with the French winning 45%. 

Not sure what heading to use: I had two full paragraphs on possible strategies but you know, the game is small enough that you, "yes, you laddie", can come up with your own. Besides my non-ability to win very many of the games as the French disqualifies me from offering advice. :D  However, if I may suggest that you get all 3 of these little Battle of Waterloo pocket battle games, it will be worth it. 

Summary: This is the 3rd pbg on the Battle of Waterloo.  There are many books written on this battle.  I have ten big thick books myself from the quint-essential bible on Napoleon "The Campaigns of Napoleon" by Dr Chandler to Scotty Bowden's masterpiece "Waterloo" and all in between.  Also, I have all the Osprey books on the various units of this battle, including several French books on uniforms and tactics (these are out of print) and the pride of my art prints collection - the old Heritage Miniature set of all the uniforms at the Battle of Waterloo. 
 
There are literately dozens of websites not only on Napoleon and the Battle of Waterloo, but on the different regiments, battalions, brigades, and other leaders. 
 
This time period is covered more than the Roman Empire or Germany versus Soviet Union.  Games are very numerous too.  For example, I have 15 board games, three sets of miniature rules, and the seven pocket games. Though most tend to take hours (and hours and hours and...) to play, these little pocket battle games take only 45 mins or less. A bargain these little games are and the price is right too.    
 
A web site that I, with all sincerity recommend, is "The Napoleon Series" . Napoleonic history galore. And there is also "The Waterloo Association" that one can join.
 
And I see that I went to much greater game detail than what I want to do these days.  This may be the last....

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.

 

29.5.22

Memorial Day 30 May 2022


It is fitting that a battlefield cross be the photo here.  Memorial Day is an event that many families will use to celebrate the first 3 day week-end holiday of the season. 

But it is important to remember that this day is set aside to remember the fallen who died to allow you this freedom.   The above photo is of a fallen American on 6th of June 1944 on the Omaha beach.  It is of his B.A.R.  with his helmet to mark his temporary resting place.  

At 3pm, local time, take a minute and reflect upon this cost that all of these individuals paid for you. 

 

General Order No. 11
Washington, D.C., May 5th, 1868
Headquarters, Grand Army of The Republic
General John A. Logan's General Order 11 (Memorial Day Order)

I. The 30th day of May, 1868, is designated for the purpose of strewing with flowers or otherwise decorating the graves of comrades who died in defense of their country during the late rebellion, and whose bodies now lie in almost every city, village, and hamlet church-yard in the land. In this observance no form of ceremony is prescribed, but posts and comrades will in their own way arrange such fitting services and testimonials of respect as circumstances may permit.

We are organized, comrades, as our regulations tell us, for the purpose among other things, "of preserving and strengthening those kind and fraternal feelings which have bound together the soldiers, sailors, and marines who united to suppress the late rebellion." What can aid more to assure this result than cherishing tenderly the memory of our heroic dead, who made their breasts a barricade between our country and its foes? Their soldier lives were the reveille of freedom to a race in chains, and their deaths the tattoo of rebellious tyranny in arms. We should guard their graves with sacred vigilance. All that the consecrated wealth and taste of the nation can add to their adornment and security is but a fitting tribute to the memory of her slain defenders. Let no wanton foot tread rudely on such hallowed grounds. Let pleasant paths invite the coming and going of reverent visitors and fond mourners. Let no vandalism of avarice or neglect, no ravages of time testify to the present or to the coming generations that we have forgotten as a people the cost of a free and undivided republic.

If other eyes grow dull, other hands slack, and other hearts cold in the solemn trust, ours shall keep it well as long as the light and warmth of life remain to us.

Let us, then, at the time appointed gather around their sacred remains and garland the passionless mounds above them with the choicest flowers of spring-time; let us raise above them the dear old flag they saved from dishonor; let us in this solemn presence renew our pledges to aid and assist those whom they have left among us a sacred charge upon a nation's gratitude, the soldier's and sailor's widow and orphan.

II. It is the purpose of the Commander-in-Chief to inaugurate this observance with the hope that it will be kept up from year to year, while a survivor of the war remains to honor the memory of his departed comrades. He earnestly desires the public press to lend its friendly aid in bringing to the notice of comrades in all parts of the country in time for simultaneous compliance therewith.

III. Department commanders will use efforts to make this order effective.

By order of

JOHN A. LOGAN,
Commander-in-Chief

‍ N.P. CHIPMAN,
Adjutant General

Official:
WM. T. COLLINS, A.A.G.

20.5.22

Trying something new... updated 14.06.22

B-29s over Japan.
Well, I am running on 3 cylinders lately but decided to try something new with the blog. I will be playing around with it for a while.  

Take a look, it's alright! And let me know, how you like this? I am sitting on the fence, myself.

There are some things I haven't figured out myself, such as making the side bar a different color and more narrow in width.  Also, the fonts all need to be changed. Probably back to the old standard of Arial. 

Ok, I think I got the new theme, after playing around for the last few days.  Now to get the colors "just right" and images up.   Thanks for sticking by me!

Finally finished with the blog. This is the new way it will look for a while, at least not until I find a very large background photo.  😁

25.3.22

hi!

There is an online game store called "A Gray Rooster Sales LLC" and is located in several different areas of the great black hole of the internet (at least that is how I think of it these days when I lose connection and can't do a dang thing!!!).  😜  

Oh yeah, owned by Dan Keifer (see his business card above) and he has a logo of an African Grey Parrot, one of the smartest birds in the world and can live up to 80 human years (that's a long time).  Not sure if he has one or not.  But I figure he is not some young pup, but up there closer in age to me and a few others.  (just received notification that "yes" Dan does have an African Grey!  WOW, that is something.)

First, the online store I use is - A Gray Rooster Sales LLC.

They also have a presence on - Amazon StoreBoard Game Geek & eBay - and lastly facebook.  (sorry, I don't do facebook and since it is blocked in Firefox and the DuckDuckGo search engine that I use, can't connect. However, if you go to the online store, you can find the address).  

I found Gray Rooster Sales LLC by accident and went to his online store.  This was for the excellent solo game "Keep Up The Fire" by John Welch.  Honestly, you need to buy this game. It deals with the Boxer Rebellion set in China in 1900, I believe is the date. It is no cakewalk.

What impressed me the most are the various companies whose games he sells. For example, there is Against The Odds (& TPS), Revolution Games, Clash of Arms, Compass Games, Dan Verssen Games (DVG), Flying Pig Games, Legion Games, MMP, Tiny Battle Publishing, and last but not least, Worthington Publishing.  

Now, you are thinking, what in the Sam Hill does this have to do with this blog or wargaming reviews or anything?  Well, good question!  What makes Dan or A Gray Rooster Sales LLC rate a blog post?  Three things, Skippy.  One, the prices are great. Two, some of the best customer services I have ever had the pleasure of being on the receiving end of.  And three, how they ship the product to a customer.  

And that my friends is what this blog post is about.  It takes me about 20 minutes to open a package that I received from Dan, while other companies, anywhere from 20 seconds, to 5 mins.  

I ordered "Custer's Last Stand" by Worthington Publishing, a few days ago.  A game I really have no interest in, but saw that it was actually two games in one. These being  the "Battle of Little Bighorn" and "Rosebud Creek". Plus there is a an optional scenario on Worthington's web site called Brisbin Scenario  .  "Dang, peak my interest, why don't ya".

With this game calling my name, I saw it was sold out on Worthington's site and a light bulb went off - let me go to my favorite online gaming store and see if it is there. Why shore' nuff it is!  KA-CHING, plunk down my $$ via pay pal, sent in the online form and within 5 minutes, had received the pay pal invoice detailing everything - from game to mailing cost.  Paid that sucker and again within a few minutes, received the receipt for the order and 30 mins later, received the USPS tracking number.  

Dan is somewhere in Ohio... no, I won't hold that against him, as some of my best friends are up in that neck of the woods (hi Paul)... But I know that even USPS Priority Mail, though quick a few years ago, has become stuck in molasses, slow, slow, slow.  But not this time!  note- so before the bitchin' starts, the USPS started having this problem way before covid hit the world.  My frau is a retired postal worker of 20 years.  😛

Mail out late on Monday, suppose to be at my door on Friday, actually came a day early!  Hmmmm, maybe the USPS is finally getting their act together or a good sign of the times?    

Couldn't do anything until today, because I wanted to take photos of the box as it was unwrapped and let it dry out.  Why? To show my good readers (and the bad ones, you know who you are, lol) the care that Dan puts into shipping.  

The Box

Here is the package on the back of my truck, waiting to be open.  Yes, I blanked out my address. 

It's Priority Mail, tracked.  Nice sticker.  What you can't see is every seam has been professionally taped.  Each corner, nothing is sticking out or out of place, unlike when I wrap Christmas gifts.  

BTW, postal was $16.00.  Not bad, as the game box is heavy.  

Oh yeah, this is a birthday present from my wife.  Finally, something better than underwear or socks! 


Opening the Box

After gathering the tools that will be needed, a box cutter with new blade and a large putty knife (trust me, it was needed. Not my first rodeo with unpacking Gray Rooster Sales, LLC packing). 

I proceeded carefully, opening up one end. Yes, the signature extra tape on the inside flap was there.  And the extra box on the inside with the filler nicely cut to keep the package from rattling.  I have ordered from a lot of companies, but none of them go to this extreme of packing a game.  And we still have more to go!!! 

 

Box number 2

LOL, I forgot the photo of the 2 boxes together. Here it is and both are labeled.  

The first time I saw this, in the previous game bought, I was actually amused. Who would take the time to use two boxes? And my thought was "Fantastic, someone who takes pride".  

I don't know of anybody who would go thru the trouble of double boxing.  Do you? 

 

Ok, now we are getting some- where. Box 2 has been carefully opened. We can see now the bubble filler on the left side along with some card filler on the right. And that funny looking thing inside the box is what we are after, "The Game"!! 
 
Gray Rooster Sales, LLC business card is under the first layer of plastic.  As we go on, you will see the Dan uses 3 different layers of plastic to water-proof the game.  
 
 
And I know it works as the Mail-Person left it outside on the porch in the rain. Box #1 was wet, but not the game. 

Unwrapping the plastic
 

 

First layer of plastic. Very heavy duty.  I wanted to be gentle and not tear the crap out, I used the box cutter to start a cut. Then grabbed a pair of scissors to make a cut along the edge.  

Here it is about 1/3 of way off.  Since I only have 2 arms, I had to put the package down to take the photo.  






 
 
Here is the second layer being pulled off. At this point the back started twinging and I needed to go take some meds.  
 
What is left on the package is a bubble wrap that is perfectly sealed.  I pulled that off, but forgot to take a photo to show it. 



 
 
 
 
 
And last but not least, all three layers of the plastic that protected the game!!  
 


 

 

 

And here it is - all that trouble for this, Custer's Last Stand.  

On the photo, I mention that "the game" is sitting on top of 50+ unopened other games. That's true.  For someone who doesn't play very much these days, I buy these suckers way too often.  

Will I play this game and do a review? Probably not, but maybe.

Well, that's it.  Gray Rooster Sales LLC, has impressed me and I am sure they will impress you, with their prices, customer service and the protection they give to each game shipped.  Lots of different places to view their wares.  All I can do is wish Dan continued success with his stores.  

And honestly, if you go there, please tell them you saw it here.  No, I won't take any freebie stuff, not the way I roll.  

It is just that this place reminds me of the brick and mortar stores back in the 80s that sold wargames and not euro-trash or the other "feel good" games out there.  Take care and please do use them. 

I know that Legion Games sells three of the "US-Indian War" wargames, Battle of Rosebud Creek, Battle of Little Bighorn and Battle of Adobe Walls. And knowing of Legion's graphic design and seeing photos of the game maps, they look beautiful. I am not saying that these games are bad, just that they are of a different design, different scale, requiring more rules and more time to play, games I can not play. But others may. Also Gray Rooster Sales has two of these three for sale too.  (finally received the stock.)

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong.

27.1.22

What's going on with the blog AB?

Well, not much.... Many reasons why, not needed here. 

I did get into a "new to me" game company - "Worthington Games".  Roy of War Diary talked me into getting "Dunkirk", my first block game. Interesting.  After this experience, I found "Keep Up The Fire" and "Tarawa: 1943".  Both are solo, hard to master, and difficult to beat.  

Enjoy both, but I think my heart is in "Keep Up The Fire", though to be honest, I think I would rather be whip in an opium den, as the pain would be less severe. That one is difficult. 

Speaking of Worthington Games, they have 7 reprints coming back in their shop and on a limited sale.  You may want to go their web page and look at them.  I know I will be getting two of them, Quebec 1757 and Malta Besieged, both solo. 

Also, I have been sleeving the cards in all of the DVG and Worthington games, I have.  

For DVG "Leader" series games, I use Ultra-Pro #81126, 2 5/8" x 3 5/8". 

I use Ultra-Pro #81126. Why these? Easy, it's what the comic shop has. Cost was $1.99 for 100. These fit the DVG cards just right.  :)  And for DVG, plan on getting 5 to 6 packs for each Leader game.

And for the Worthington Games cards, I use KMC, 64mm x 89mm. 

I believe the comic book guy explained that these are actually inner sleeves for the Ultra-Pro.  But they fit the cards tighter which is what I want.  Cost of these are more as these sleeves are imported from Japan - $5.99 for 100. 

Lots of games are piling up in the game corner!  I mean lots. I keep buying and receiving games, I can't keep up.

Been play testing a new game for High Flying Dice Games.  Cannot say what it is, but it is early Vietnam.  It is tough for the US to win, is going to be able to be playable solo. And that my friends is all I am going to say.  Except, I will say that once it comes together it will be a game to get.  Speaking of, I need to start writing down what has been going on. 

And a sad note to close on... Fellow play tester, war gamer, all round good guy, and a Pastor to boot, Barry Kendall, passed away a few weeks ago.  We never met, but we corresponded by email in a bunch of play test games for Paul of High Flying Dice Games. Talk about someone who knew their history. Barry sure did.  I know he is sorely missed by all he came into contact with.  I would want him in my foxhole while under fire.  Semper Fi Barry.

Thank you for coming to the blog and reading...  

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong.

30.6.21

Bloody Mohawk

"When the Indians succeed in their silent approaches…a scene of horror, that exceeds description, ensues…. The figure of the combatants all besmeared with black and red paint, and covered with the blood of the slain, their horrid yells, and ungovernable fury, are not to be conceived by those who have never crossed the Atlantic."

And so, the end of the Battle for Fort William Henry begins the massacre at Fort William Henry.

Bloody Mohawk "The French and Indian War", Scenario Battle of Fort William Henry August 8, 1757, page 14-15

As I lost this scenario to the French and their Indian allies, I remember the above that Jonathon Carver had wrote in his book "Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America, in the Years 1766, 1767, and 1768."  (London: C. Dilly; H. Payne; J. Phillips, 1781, 313) and actually thought "this, is the end..."

Title: Bloody Mohawk, "The French and Indian War"

Price: $ 39.99 for box edition or zip lock bag, $24.99 for download PnP (print and play) On sale for $28.00 zip-lock bag plus shipping.  Please notice this "On Demand Series" game no longer comes in a box.  Outside of not wanting to mount and cut out counters, I opt to buy the zip lock.

Designer: Bill Molyneaux

Graphic Designer: Jose Ramon Faura

Publisher: Lock 'N Load - Battle on Demand series

Published Date: 2018 & 2020

Subject: French and Indian War

Scale: not mention, but probably 100 yards to the hex. How did I come up with this? Easy.  Muskets have a range between 50 to 100 yards, bows about the same, and the light artillery (1 to 3) during this time has a range of about 300 yards and the same for heavy artillery (1-5) of about 500 yards.

Game Area: various battle areas in North America during the time frame.

Player Supplied Components: None needed. Even the 10 sided die (DR) is included.

click to go to LnL
Components and Physical Quality:  Very nice.  Some of the nicest I have seen. The following is included:

1 x Zip-lock Bag
12 x 8.5” x 11.0” game maps
1 x Game Manual
1 x Counter Sheet of 88 Die Cut Counters
1 x Terrain Effects Chart (Player Aid) card
1 x d10 Die

Counters: Rounded corners, .6" in size, colourful. The counters for each side has a very well done drawing of a combatant with a background of their national flag. 

Game Map: Colourful, large white outline hexes against various shades of green and brown on heavy card stock 8.5" x 11" in size.  Double sided. 

Additional Components: Terrain Effects Chart (TEC) called a Player Aid.  Listing the various terrain, the movement costs, combat modifiers, and the effect on retreating. Also includes the turn track.  This one additional add to the TEC causes the non-ability to be able to pick up the TEC to read the information.  Should have been separate.  Easy enough to make a new one, but why? Two cents of paper and ink couldn't be spared?  

A special word needs to be said about the included D10.  Mine is Marine blue with white numbers.  It is a very well made die with good points, well balance, not cheap at all.  I have $5 D10 dice that this one that is included with the game, puts to shame. 

Complexity: EASY, Introductory.  The game is also being sold at various National Parks.

Scenarios:  12 fast playing scenarios depicting various battles during the French and Indian Wars in North America. 

Setup Time:  If sorted, 5 minutes.  If not sorted, probably 10 - 15 minutes.

Playing Time: Between 15 mins to 1 - 2 hours, depending on the scenario. 

Number of Players: Designed for two players. 

Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10):  Not very good, a 7, but just about any game can be played solo.

Rules: These are very simple rules, they do need some help.  

Addenda: None has ever been published.  However, I found quite a few questions asked on several different forums and gathered the questions and answers into one place.  See below. (though, I understand questions, what I can't understand is not publishing an errata sheet and having it on LnL's web site, as they do have a forum) 

Play-Balance: Good. Some scenarios handicap one side or the other, to simulate what was going on at that battle, at that particular hour.  For example, to simulate wet weather, a scenario has the attackers adding +2 to their attack DR for wet powder.

Any additional to the rules?  Sure there are. Special rules are listed in the scenarios. 

Evaluation or Summary:  The game is good, as it does what it is suppose to do, being introductory. I would have to give it a 7.  The rules could use a touch up and be explain in a few areas better. 

click to go to WD
No, I did not pay much and the game was not sent to me for free for review.  Being a subscriber to War Diary (WD) magazine, one gets a coupon for one free game from Lock N Load. All one has to do is pay postage - I used my coupon for this game and it cost me aprx $15 for shipping.  Another bonus of subscribing to WD  included in the price are several 25% off coupons for games from Lock N Load and Revolution Games.   Besides the interesting articles (even for games I will never purchase) and some of the top writers in the field, Roy and Rob of WD has worked hard to give subscribers the best bang for the buck. For this, I thank them. Also, congrats for the 2019 Origins Award!!!  

There are several problem areas that need to be known - there is very little to no rules for line of sight of artillery (since they are ranged attacks) and the counters are hard to understand. For example the combat factor is shown as "1/6".  Think of the 1/6 as 1- 6. ( why?!?  The "-" shows a range of numbers, while "/" means "and/or" Sort of silly isn't it.)

The graphic to the left shows what the counters are like with explanations.

Using the example from above "1-6", on a DR of 1, an attack always succeeds.  A DR of 2 to 6 can hit, but terrain has to be added. For example, if a defending unit is in a defensive position (a stone bldg), +3 is added to the attackers DR. If a 6 is rolled, add +3 for the bldg, the final is attack number is 9, a miss. 

An errata sheet would have taken care of these questions instead of questions being asked on several forums on several different web sites.  To me, not making a errata sheet and making it available on the publishers site is sheer laziness. 

Here is a collection of questions and answers found on several forums on different gaming sites.  (note - I take no responsibility for the way these are written, I just copied and put into a doc file. Some of them don't make a lot of sense, and you are on your own.)

1) Counters: what does the "1/" in front of the combat factor signify?

A1. The 1/6 or 1/7 etc is the ‘to hit’ number based on the units Combat Roll number. Anything within this range is the die roll needed to make a successful attack.  

A2. note - Combat value of say “1-7” that is the number you must roll to achieve a hit. an example in play test with NON war gamers having the one number of a 7 confused them was it a number above a seven or below a seven. Once we changed it to a value of “1-7” as an example, it solved that issue.  (too bad this isn't listed as such on the counter)

2) Counters: why is light spelled "lite"?

 A. It was the designer’s choice of phrase as it is from the period. "Lite" was the type of gun class.  (Really?!? I have yet to find in the period diaries I have read or any historical books that the spelling of the word "light" spelled as "lite" is used.  Well, whatever trips your trigger.
😄)

3) Are road hexes that have woods in them treated as woods for combat purposes?

A. No, the Terrain Effects Chart shows no Combat or Retreat effects. The unit that is traveling along the road does not benefit from the surrounding terrain because the roads were built in light woods terrain.

4) (The) "R" spaces at the bottom of the Monongahela map are not referenced in the rulebook.

A. These denote the direction of retreat for this scenario.

5) Is the French leader considered a unit for purposes of victory conditions in the Braddock’s Defeat scenario?

A. No, the French leader is not considered a unit for victory point conditions. Historically, he was killed at the start of the actual battle.

6) What are the camp hexes referenced in the victory conditions for the Battle of Lake George, and when it says they are considered units for losses does that mean if the British enter the hexes?

A. Per the designer: All of the hexes, for camp are at the edge where the British start.

7) Battle of Sideling Hill: no hexes are marked B, F or R for unit placement.

A. Please open a support ticket to get this taken care of for you as it sounds like you don't have the correct map.  (1st edition. It was quickly fixed. Contact LnL)

8) Battle of Fort William Henry: no hexes are marked with an underlined F.  

A. Same as above, please open a support ticket to have that taken care of for you.
(
1st edition. It was quickly fixed. Contact LnL)

9) Does reference to optional retreat rules just means the last paragraph of the retreat rules?

A. Yes. If a unit takes a hit, flip the counter and then roll the morale number. If it fails this roll,  then retreat towards to direction of retreat.

10) Do friendly units block line of sight for artillery? Seems it would be blocked (as in most other games) but rules only reference terrain as blocking line of sight.  

A. Yes any unit blocks line of sight for the big guns.

11) Terrain chart says some units, those without a green F, cannot retreat into forest hex without first passing a morale test.   

A. Rules under 5.3 states that the unit forced to retreat into a forest hex is eliminated upon failing its retreat test.

12)  I am assuming a Morale Test and Retreat Roll are same thing, is that right?    

A. You test your moral if your unit has taken a loss, if it fails, it retreats

13) Are non Green MF units prohibited from retreating into a forest hex or may they retreat if they pass a Morale Test? It seems like the TEC contemplates a two step process - Retreat Roll then a second Morale Test to enter Forest hex? Or are non Green MF simply prohibited from retreating into a forest hex?    

A. Red F units may not retreat into a forest.

14) Can you retreat to a hex adjacent to a enemy unit? I assume “no,” but not sure. Rules say you must retreat away from attacker.     

A. Retreat away from the enemy and you canny (cannot) retreat into a enemy unit.

15) How do I trace LOS?  Should I use the traditional center-to-center method? If so, what happens if my LOS runs through a hex spine, where a hex is blocking terrain and the other is not?     

A. Line of site - if there  are trees, a house, or something blocking the path you can't see it. However you can shoot down a road.

16) Do intervening units block LOS?    

A. Yes units block line of site.

17) Road terrain and forests. A hex with a road passing through a forest, how is it considered for combat?  A road or a forest?    

 A. Road in the woods is still consider woods for combat as there is cover on both sides of the road but you may shoot a cannon ball down the road.

18) In the Battle of Lake George scenario instructions it is said that the British leader and the three "camp hexes" are to be considered as units for victory purposes. The issue is that I cannot find any "camp hex"!     

A. Lake George scenario, the three clear hexes are the camp hexes.

19) What is the (French) "CDB"?

A. The CDB (Coureurs d'Bois) represents French Trappers and locals who were not part of the militia.

Finale...  on to the soapbox!!!

How to remember to go to everyone's web site to get answers is beyond me.  And saying to make up house rules, is ridiculous. Every game should be the best it can be, rules explained and if a player doesn't like it, then they can make up their own rules.  But when one does this, the game changes from what the designer was thinking/making.  

Sorry, but this laissez-faire thinking towards game rules is a cop out.  For Snakes & Ladders, sure, but not a war game.  Yes, life is short, but when one designs a game such as this, then there needs to be semi-concrete answers and errata, especially when intentionally sold at State and National parks (good idea though) to potentially folks who may have never played a game such as this. Since the publisher has their own forum area, this should have been the only place to find answers and an errata sheet, not all over the place. 

There is only one designer/developer I know and he has the smarts to listen to his play testers when they ask "what are you trying to do with this rule in this game?". He also explains the rational behind the rule and listens to possible better ways of rewriting that rule.  Not saying most good designers and developers don't do this, I only know of one personally.

What's strange is there are some really interesting ideas in the game.  The addition of special rules for the scenarios (though not new to games, just being used in a very introductory game), the use of colour coding on the counters to show those units that can go thru woods or not, among a few others.  Very interesting. Would I buy this game if I had known all of this before hand?  For the low cost I paid for the game, yeah.  But honestly, not for full price.  If you have money to burn, then by all means go for it.   

Off the soapbox...
Well, that is it for this review. It is a good, fun game, with some of the nicest counters and maps (and rules booklet) I have seen in a long time, aimed supposedly at a novice.  But, it needs a veteran gamer to show the novice the ropes due to some of the problem areas in the rules.

There is a sister game to "Bloody Mohawks" called "Savage Wilderness" with different scenarios. Same counters, rule booklet (names changed of course), same look and feel to the game maps, same problem areas, but honestly, not worth the money.  These maps and scenarios should have been added to this game. And that would make Bloody Mohawk a great game buy at $39.99, even with the problem areas.  Or even offering Savage Wilderness as an add-on like LnL's Tank Vs Tank Eastern Front (or Western Tank) does. 

My suggestion, unless you are a collector and don't play the games, is to buy one or the other and grab the one you don't buy as a download and print out the scenarios and the game maps. You will save money in the long run as they are both the same rules booklet, same counters, same TEC (player's aid), though a different dedication.

Thank you for coming to the blog and reading...  

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong.
 
[edited 02 Jul 2021 to clarify a couple of points and correct a word]
[edited 13 Sept 2021 to really correct a misspelled word. Not the first time not the last!]

5.2.21

Hitting Home

What if...
This game asks an interesting question, what if members of the Tripartite Pact (aka Axis) had attacked deep inside North America?  Where would this be? What place, if attacked, early in the war, say 1942, could have made the war last longer or possible brought the U.K. and/or the Soviets, then the US to their knees and sued for peace?

One of those places is the subject of the latest game from High Flying Dice, LLC. Called "Hitting Home - Axis Raids on the Soo Locks, 1942 & 1945", a "what if" on an Axis aerial attack on the Soo Lock system located on the St Mary's River (between Lake Superior and Lake Huron) at Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan and Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario.

The locks were well guarded as members of the 131st Infantry and 100th Coastal Artillery had begun arriving early in 1942. They were armed with anti-aircraft weapons and used 60-inch searchlights to patrol the sky. 

Shortly afterward, the 399th Barrage Balloon Battalion arrived to do their part in the defense of the locks. Their barrage balloons were anchored in place 2,000 feet above the locks by inch-thick steel cables, for protection from low level aircraft (no balloons in the game, drat.). Steel mesh nets were installed underwater above and below the locks to guard against torpedo attacks that might be used on the lock gates. 

One of the local jokes in the Sault Ste. Marie area was that the amount of AAA and barrage balloons on one's property dictated one's status in the community.  

A one time attack could possibly caused problems for a week or more, as a fallen rail bridge did on October 7, 1941.  Ships were backed up and in anchorage below and above the locks, while the bridge spans and train were cleared from the area and parts of the locks repaired.

With roughly 90% of all iron ore coming from the northern iron regions destine for the steel factories in the east, a surprise attack might disrupt enough shipping to the point of less ore for the manufacturing of munitions, armor, guns, weapons, and aircraft being available for the war effort, whether lend-lease or general use for the US forces.   

Note - this attack would need to be sustained not only by aircraft bombing, water mining, and by saboteurs at the Soo Locks, but also up and down the St Mary's River.   

Wait a sec, there -ab, there are rails and highways. America would just move everything that way.  Possible but... besides shipping on water, the next best thing for inter-continental transport in the US at this time was rail. And rail was too busy with transporting pretty much everything all-ready across the country. There were not enough engines (locomotives), rail cars, or rails to move all the iron ore required and move everything else. Air Transport was not available in the quantity needed. The road system, honestly, was a shambles across the country, nor was it high speed.  It would take too long to deliver the amount of ore needed to keep the mills going and would create back-logs in every type of war goods shipping.  This river system and its locks are needed for steel.  Also, never think that the US is not bless by having all the waterways we have, like the Great Lakes, Mississippi and Missouri Rivers to name a few.

Government thinkers thought a one way bombing run from Norway was possible. Other thoughts were aircraft being brought into Hudson Bay via German transport ships and used, as in the game.  

Another thought (mine), in 1942, the Japanese had several very large, very long range bomber-type float planes that could have made life hell for the continental United States. Mavis (H6K) and Emily (H8K) flying from Japan, refueling from subs, then to Attu and Kiska Islands that Japan had captured, refueling and with 10 or more of them flying in fuel, crews, equipment, and munitions for a small sea plane base on one of the many large lakes in Canada. Attu and Kiska could have been used for stockpiling men, equipment, and supplies and used for transporting to somewhere in Canada. Far fetch? Probably, but lucky for us none of this was ever implemented by the Axis high commands and this is where the game comes into play....

Title:  Hitting Home, Axis Raids on the Soo Locks 1942 & 1945
Price: $12.95
Card set Available: $9.00
Designer:  Paul Rohrbaugh
Graphics Designer:  Bruce Yearian
Publisher:  High Flying Dice Games, LLC
Published Date:  2020

The Game
Hitting Home is an introductory air game using High Flying Dice's tried and true air war gaming system. Other games HFDG based on this system have been reviewed here, such as Fighting Eagles and Honcho, among a few others. This latest version is no slouch when it comes to being easy to play and IMHO, fun. Also, the game graphics are top-notch as only Bruce Yearian can do (sorry, though other graphic designers have done a few of these games, and are good, IMHO Bruce is the one who just does it right).

Components (Rules 1.1, 1.2, 1.3)
Each "Hitting Home" game is comprised of the following:
one 8.5" x 11" "Raid" map
one 8.5" x 11" "Air Strike" map
one set of rules (4 single sheet pages!)
one set of 50 unmounted counters

Player Supplied Components
The player will need to provide one D6 and a deck of cards.

Miscellaneous
Of course, HFDG has a card set to replace the deck of cards, that is available for purchase at $9.  Mounting of the counters is available for $6, but you will need to cut them out.

Counters
50 unmounted, mostly double-sided counters consisting of:

18 1" counters  double-sided
7 US Aircraft (2 P-36; 2 P-40; 3 P-47)
3 US AAA (representing the 100th Coastal Artillery)
2 German He-114 & 2 He-115 (for 1942 Scenario)
4 IJN M6A (for 1945 scenario)

20 1/2"  markers double-sided
7 "Very Low / Low" altitude
7 "High / Very High" altitude (note - Aircraft at Medium altitude do not need a marker)
2 Victory Point markers - 1x, 10x German / Japanese
4 "One Attack Left" German / Japanese (for bombers)

12 1/2" markers single-sided
    3 "Guns Jammed"
    3 "Lucky Shot"
    1 Target
    1 Sun
    1 Air Defense Level
    1 Turn
    1 German Base / 1 Japanese Base

Note - Yes the rules say 43 counters/markers. But if I can guess, there are extra two Guns Jammed, two Lucky Shots, one extra Allied aircraft, and the other extra counters could be the Japanese Victory Point markers and Japanese Base. As the Victory Point markers for the German/Japanese and the German/Japanese base marker could have been made universal, requiring only one set.  No biggie, as more is always better. 

Setup (Rules 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 4.1, 4.2)
After figuring out which scenario (there are only two - 1942 scenario or 1945 scenario) will be played, markers (counters, whatever), are placed on the Raid map and  four Allied 1942 aircraft placed in a cup to have three blindly pulled (if playing the 1942 scenario.). If the player puts the game and counters into one of the gaming trays as sold by Against The Odds (ATO) magazine, set up will be F-A-S-T and storage of the game, sweet! 

Play then is resolved on the Raid Map to see what the final ADL is for the Allied player.

got to love this map
Raid Map (Rules 3.0, 4.1)
The "Raid" map adds a new flavor to the Eagle series of games by using an "overall" map that shows the "Attack" base of the enemy to the target area via a series of "Ingress /Egress" boxes, "Box 1" and "Box 2". These boxes serve as possible areas that might spot the enemy and alert the "Target Area". 
 
As the Axis aircraft are moved from box to box, a D6 is rolled to determine the Air Defense Level (ADL). Depending on the ADL (from 1 to 3) and recorded on the "Game Record Keeping Track" that is on the "Raid" map, when the Axis player reaches the target area, this final number will decide how many aircraft and AAA units are available at the start of the game for the Allies. Plus it dictates how many black cards will be available for card draws (action points and combat) for the Allied player.  

For example in rule 4.1, if the ADL is 1 when the actual game starts on the "Air Strike" map, the Axis player will have 2 Axis air units that start on the "Air Strike" map on any North edge. Only 1 Allied AAA unit is in play and placed. No Allied air units are available for play at start (south edge of Air Strike map). The cards are shuffle to make the game deck using all the red card for the Axis player and both Jokers. However, the Allied player only uses the black suite number cards 1 to 5 and all black face cards. One Allied air unit will arrive on turn 1 after the first Joker CD (card draw) and another Allied air unit will be available at the start of turn 2 as a reinforcement.  This is not good and shows what could happen if unprepared for an attack.  

Can this happen in the game? Well, it did for me in several games - it is tough!  Plus the 1st Joker wasn't turn over until close to the end of the 1st game turn - when I received my 1st aircraft. And the Axis player got the "Enemy Guns Jammed" random event. Yes, the Soo Locks were bombed and out of commission. Again, almost the same thing happen on the second game. By the 3rd game, I made sure that those Air Raid Wardens were sent to better duty in the middle of the Everglades with no insect repellent, leaky rubber boots, and no boat. Yes, I changed the 6 sided die as payback is a mutha.

Yes, both boxes will be rolled for. The marker for the ADL is placed on box 1 of the Game Record Track. If the Allied player is lucky for the first I/E box and rolls a "1", then the ADL marker is advance to "2" on the Game Record Track and so on for the 2nd I/E box. "3" is the max.  

isn't this map beautiful
Air Strike Map (Rules 4.0, 4.1, 4.2)
This is the actual game map for combat.  It is a very nice overhead shot of the Soo Lock area divided into 8x8 squares. It does show an extra lock that would not be available for the 1942 scenario, but is available for 1945.  This is the MacArthur Lock built in 1943 by the Army Corps of Engineers, in an impressive feat of engineering.   

The Axis will enter play on the North side and the Allied Player on the South. 

One needs to place the sun marker by rolling 1D6. Believe it or not, this is important as the sun adds or subtracts  modifiers for attack depending on where it is place.  See 4.2 for this.

Cards  (4.1, 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.4.1, 5.4.2, 6.0, 7.0)
A deck of cards is used to regulate who gets to move and/or have combat and the amount of Action Points. If you read this blog very much, you know that I actually prefer and like this system for game play instead of the usual chit pulling or the Igo-Ugo play style.  Some of HFDG games use all cards in one deck or 2 separate decks. This game uses all the cards shuffled together.   

The Axis player uses all of the red card suite (Ace to Ten and all Face cards), while the Allied player uses the black card suite (Ace to Ten and all Face cards), but the amount of black cards this player receives is dependent on the ADL as mentioned above under "Raid" map (4.1). Two Jokers are added and all cards are shuffled together. Each time a card is drawn (CD), the player whose colour is drawn gets to act, whether movement and/or combat and for the amount of "Action Points" available to be able to do this.  

To figure out the amount of  "Action Points" (AP), when an Ace to 10 card is drawn, divide the card number by 1/2 and round up. For example, an "Ace" is 1 AP, while a "5" is 3 APs and a "10" is 5 APs. These APs can be used for up to three aircraft counters for movement or attacking.   

Handy Dandy Card Values
Action Point Ace to 10 Card Values Black (Allies) or Red (Axis) suits. To figure out the Action Points, (1/2 the CD rounded up) to be used for up to 3 aircraft that the player wants to move-
 Ace = 1 AP
  2 = 1 AP
  3 = 2 AP
  4 = 2 AP
  5 = 3 AP
  6 = 3 AP
  7 = 4 AP
  8 = 4 AP
  9 = 5 AP
10 = 5 AP

Face cards allow one aircraft counter three action points and either an attack against a AAA site (Red) or an AAA attack against an aircraft counter at low or medium altitude (Black).  

Note - this is the second air game of Paul's using this in the Eagle gaming system.  The first is Desert Eagles, a game that I have played but just didn't review. One of these days, I will need to correct that oversight.

Jokers are important. The first Joker CD (whether for movement or combat) allows a random event (only once per game if used) and releases an aircraft for the Allies and the reminding two aircraft for the Axis on game turn one.  

The second Joker, again for either movement or combat, either ends the game turn or the game after 4 game turns. However, if both players have not had a chance to preform an action (i.e. move/combat for aircraft or attack/fire AAA) then the card is discarded and play continues with a new CD.

An aircraft movement chart is on the page 4 showing the possible moves and AP cost for each move. Remember to start in the center square. And bombers can't preform the last line (pulling loops).

Combat (Rules 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.4.1. 5.4.2)
No, I am not going to list them. The rules are short enough.
for air combat see 5.2.
for AAA combat see 5.3.
for Bombers bombing see 5.4,
for Bomber defensive fire see 5.4.1
for Japanese Kamikaze attacks see 5.4.2.

End of Game  (Rules 3.0, 7.0, 8.0)
The game is over, either by no Axis aircraft on the Air Strike map, or at the end of the 4th game turn. Axis aircraft are the only units that can exit the North edge of the Air Strike map. 

The surviving Axis air units are returned to the Axis Base on the Raid map.  A DR is made for each unit and the base against the current ADL. If the DR is greater than the ADL, the Axis unit or Base is unaffected. If the DR is less than or equal to the ADL, the Axis unit or Base is destroyed and VP is lost. 

Victory points (8.0) are tallied for the Axis player to see who wins. 

Rules
The rules are 4 pages in length. As usual, the rules are well written with only a little bit of possible addenda needed, none of it is a game breaker, just a very casual observation and not official from HFDG.

Under 1.1, 50 game counters, not 43. Just a few extras incase you lose one.

Under 4.1, (second column) Target marker is placed in one of the four red shaded squares, not red sided squares.

Under 5.0, the player whose face card is drawn, in addition to having 3 APs for one aircraft, can also either attack (Red face) 1 AAA unit (any altitude) or attack (Black face) with one AAA unit at an Axis aircraft at low or medium altitude. Though it is mention for the Axis player, it isn't for the Allied player.

And some other happy thoughts -
Random events happen only once per game.
Pay attention to the Movement Costs chart on page 4 of the rules.
There is also a handy List of Combat Modifiers on page 4.

My Impressions
First, is it a good game? Is it fun? Is it quick? Will it break the bank? Yes, to the first three and no, to the last. It is simple, not simple minded. It is inexpensive, not cheap. And it has a lot of smart thinking (i.e. good ideals) in it.  I like it, especially with the addition of the "Raid map". This adds that something extra that is needed and makes the game interesting with varying the amount of Allied response from game to game for playing on the Strike Map.  It can get rough if the ADL is a "1" for the game, though.

Any suggestions for play
I really can't give you any ideas on how to play the game, except the following - for the Allies, hope your plane spotters can give you advance warning (an ADL of 2 or better a 3).  The more aircraft and AAA you get, the better.  Since this is the continental US, up in the middle of the Great Lakes area, "aces" are nonexistent (they are either in the Navy out in the Pacific or across the Atlantic, learning the trade).  

For the Germans, "bombardiere so schnell du kannst und hol die hölle von der karte".
loosely translated - "bomb quickly and get the hell off the map"

The Japanese are sort of the lost ducks to the party.  You have ok aircraft, but you will be facing P-47s. Just do your best.  Will you just do the normal bombing or has kamikaze fever gotten to you? Or will you say "fudge that", bomb, then land at a different lake,  take your chances as a P.O.W., and go to Hollywood after the war?

What I would change
Well, nothing earth shattering, as everything is HIGHLY functional as is. However, if I could, I would make the altitude markers counters 1" in size. They do need to be bigger to be able to read the fine print. Even with reader glasses, I have to pick them up to read. 

I would also make the Victory Point counters generic and have one as a X1 and one as X10, not double-sided. This would make record tracking for VP easier. And only one marker is needed for Axis base. But this is just me.  As mentioned before, everything works as is. 

Well, that is it for this review. It is a fun game and really for the cost, and mounting the counters, well worth it.  

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.

5.12.20

More chat about Military PDFs and games...

Dec 7th 2020 is coming up, marking this the 79th anniversary of the bombing of Pearl Harbor.

note - click on the purple links to be taken to a particular web page.

Still no Pearl Harbor game from Legion (many reasons why), this being "Air Raid, Pearl Harbor", though their web site does say it is in production and expected in 2 months. The announcement was not dated, unfortunately. Jump on the CPO for it, as I don't believe you will be disappointed. 

With each hex equaling 250 yards, it looks to be tactical in size, but strategic in game play!!! 

UPDATED - And the only other Pearl Harbor game, not part of a larger game, that I have seen, played, and reviewed here is no longer in production. This being "Day of Infamy" by High Flying Dice Games (if you have a copy, hold on to it). Hopefully this fun little game will make a comeback.  I just found out that ATO will be publishing this game as one of their "black swans".  It will be included with the next ATO Annual 2019 - La Vendée - 1793.  It was great as a HFDG published game, so I expect the quality will remain when it is published by ATO.

In the meantime, with the battle cry of "Remember Pearl Harbor", please mark this day with a silent prayer, that all our troops will be back home soon from the sand box in the Middle East, and to not forget the people who have suffered and died thru out the history of the world from wars and epidemics.   

PDF's:
Oh boy, I have been buying the games, and not sure why. I am at the point of not being able to figure them out to play them and with the outbreak of covid-19, not really keen visiting or having game opponents come over.  And these days, not able to afford cameras or anything else to play over a network, I am locked into solo play.  It is what it is, but I am too dumb to call it quits on this blog, finally, the heart of this blog post - Pearl Harbor. Here is a pdf from one of the best sources on or about the US Navy, the Naval History and Heritage Command website.  

Desert Eagles

Air War Games:
There are two games that I can recommend, if you like short playing, easy games about air war. 

The first is the latest in what I call the "HFDG Eagle Series", Desert Eagles.  It is a fun little game, with short rules (lol, 1 page, with another page for the advance rules).  It is inexpensive, easy to play and fun. And that means it fits in with the other games in this series (yes, I have reviewed them all here, except this one - just can't get off my lazy butt to write it up).  

And the second is a game that my friend Lou Coatney has come up with  "CBI ATC: China-Burma-India Air Transport Command" located on his history web page. Yes, Lou and  I have been writing back and forth over the past few years and we both found out that our Dads were in ATC, though not at the same time (his Dad was in during WW2, my adopted Dad first flew (pilot) C-54s, C-119s, C-47s, during the Korean War to early Nam, and did a few tours in Nam as a "Husky" pilot, flying Pedro missions for air rescue.  Dad, passed away a month ago due to covid-19. I missed you, Dad.)  

This is a very interesting game. It has a lot going for it, including rock throwing yetis!  ATC pilots reported a lot of strange things while flying over the hump and planes did disappeared for no reason ever stated.  The rules are fairly easy and straight forward as is usual for a Coatney design game.  

Here is what he said - "This is a VERY playable (free to print off and play) aerial transportation solitaire game about the U.S. Army Air Force's effort to fly supplies to China to keep it in World War 2 and tie up so many Imperial Japanese Army soldiers on the Asian mainland which it did. 

A side note - Lou has designed a lot of games and made most of them available for free for personal use. He has designed, land, air and naval games. Drop him a line and tell him how much you like his designs at elcoat@hotmail.com.  Also, he has forewarned us - grab his stuff while it is still up.  One never knows when he may not be able to renew his server space!!!!!  And of course, nothing has to be mention that this is one of the nicest people you could ever write to. 

Soapbox...
Well, that is it for this time. Hopefully, all will be well with the world as we come upon holidays of December 2020 and New Year 2021 -

  • Covid-19 becomes a thing of the past; 
  • the new government that Americans have elected will make this country better and not into the nightmare of the Soviet Union; 
  • religions will realize that the prophets that they believe in are no different than other religion prophets and cease killing in their name; 
  • that the shaping and changing of history does not make a country or people better, but destroys and divides them.

 A lot to ask for, but who knows, right?!? 

Thank you for dropping by, stay safe, and Happy Holidays!
-ab

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