22.10.23

Guarding the Land

Another PBG, one of the newer ones, and a very spiffy game it is, "Guarding the Land, The Battle for Fort Griswold".

Title: Guarding the Land, The Battle for Fort Griswold
Price: $ free when bought with something
Designer: Paul Rhorbaugh
Graphics Designer: Mark Mahaffey
Publisher: LPS, Inc
Published Date: 2023

A Little History: 
Headed by that infamous traitor to this country, Benedict Arnold (a Brigadier General btw, as the British were silly pogs for accepting him. Arnold pretty soon shown his true colours as a whinger), he commanded the infamous attack on New London, CT area with attacks led by Lt Colonel Edmund Eyre across the Thames River against Groton, CT and Fort Griswold, on Sept 6th, 1781. 

The actual attack on the fort has several names, but the most infamous is "The Fort Griswold Massacre".  The story goes that when the militia force led by Lieutenant Colonel William Ledyard surrender, he was killed by a British Officer's sword and the British continued firing on and bayoneting the defenders.  Unfortunately, this story is backed up by several survivors.

There is a pdf of a historical book written on the Battle of Groton Heights that is available for free. If you would like to read it, please  click here to download. 

Be warned, it is 439 pages of reading, written on March 25, 1882 for the Groton Heights Centennial Committee. I couldn't get away from the computer while reading because it is interesting and goes into a whole lot more history than what I can or will do in this review. If you are stuck with reading it, mea culpa.

Abbreviations Used:
IU=Infantry Unit, AP=American Player, BP=British Player, BASA=British Assault Staging Area, ARL=American Resistance Level, BRL=British Resistance Level,  AM=Assault marker (the back side of the British IU), AC=Artillery Crew (treat as IU), CF=Combat Factor, CD=Card Draw, LDR=Leader, TM=Turn Marker (use a coin or make your own), TRT=Turn Record Track. I am going to do my best to use these in the review.

Subject:
The British attack on Fort Griswold, Sept 1781. (dang, we already know this. sorry for the repeat.)

Scale:
Area movement.  I am thinking about 250 yards or so for each area.

Player Supplied Components:
1D6 and 1 set of playing cards is needed. 

Components and Physical Quality:
Yes, a bigger than life 4" x 6" in size game and the standard high quality that most game companies can't match with their overpriced games, pretty much for free. Amazing.

Counters:
The game has 17 counters that need to be cut out. The breakdown is as follows - 8 British counters (7 BP IUs and 1 BRL marker) and 9 American counters (6 AP IUs (2 of these are Artillery Crew, treated the same as infantry), 1 ARL marker, and 2 LDRS (Col Ledyard and Capt Latham)).

The counters have a front side and a reduced backside, except the BP IUs, who have an AM on their backside.  Important to know as the British must be flipped to their AM side to be able to assault - cold steel up da bum. Hear about the peanut walking down the street? It was assaulted.  Of course that makes an ass... a... ah, never mind.

Card Deck Setup:
For regular card deck
- Divide the deck into black and red.  Remove all face cards (Jack, Queen and King) and 9 to 10 cards. Give black cards+1 joker to the American player (AP) and red cards+1 joker for the British (BP).  Each player shuffle their cards.

YES!  There is an HFDG card set available.  From HFDG, cost is $*. Order from them by clicking here. Enter which card set you want on the last page in the box at the bottom.

Do you need it? Why not!!! 😀  Has all the imperative information on the correct cards and you don't have to hunt for a card deck and set it up correctly.

Complexity:
Introductory, but a nice intro game. Perfect for teaching younger people a fun game AND history to boot (but don't tell them that they are learning!).

Game Map:
A nice overhead view showing the fort, with the area divided in zones. The fort areas have a red circle with a white number, while the white circles with black numbers are general non-fort areas. 

There are two red circles that are NOT Fort Griswold proper (for setup), but are part of the American fort defense complex and do count for the BRL and ARL changes. These are areas 1 (River Battery) and 13 (V shape redoubt). You can see these on the game map above.  

And last but most important, there is a red zone marked British Assault Staging Area, where all British IUs start the game.

Mark, as always, does a very pleasing job on any graphics that he puts his name too and this is no different. If you look at the game map, one will see the ground is not solid green but has shadows.  Nicely done.

Playing Time:
About 20 to 30 mins if that long.  This is one short game, once one has it figured out. 

Addendum: 
None, none at all.

Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10):
I found it works pretty well solo and it is about 65% to 35%, in favor of the British winning whether 2 player or solo.

Here are the rules.  Probably not much help to you, but  you should be able to print these out. 

the rules of the game

Game Play:
The game has 8 Turns, each with many Rounds. In general, play occurs with the side winning the Round declaring which ACT(s) it will undertake, then moving, firing at targets, conducting Assaults, and checking for success, followed by the other side.

To start a Round, players turn over the top card from their decks. The highest Card Drawn (CD) wins the Round. If the winning CD is odd (ace, 3, 5, 7), that side can do 1 Activation (ACT) or pass, then the loser may do 1 ACT, or pass. If the winning CD is even (2, 4, 6, 8) that side can do up to 2 ACTs, then the loser may do just 1 ACT. On ties, neither side can do any ACTs.

First side to draw a joker gets no ACTs that Round, but the other side gets 1 ACT.  When the second joker is drawn, the Turn ends immediately (with no ACTs performed). 

Remember, the first round of the 1st turn, the BP rolls 1D6 and has that many acts. The American player gets no acts for the first round. On the second round, do a CD as normal.

Activations:
A unit can perform only one activation per CD but can do so multiple times in   a turn. For example, either move 1 unit or fire 1 unit (see Movement, Fire Combat) and/or Assault (BP only, see Assault) or and the BP can also recycle IUs during his portion of a Round (bring back the dead) or voluntarily remove them from an area and return them to the BASA (no ACT required).

Each ACT allows a side to perform one of the following:  Move 1 IU/Leader (AP and BP) (See Movement),  Fire with 1 IU (AP and BP) (see Fire Combat), Assault (BP only).  Assaulting requires 2 ACTs and allows BP to flip all his IUs in one Area to their AM side. (See Assault), Re-enter a previously eliminated British IU to the BASA (BP only) or Voluntarily removed a BIU from any area and return the BIU to the BASA  for NO ACT COST.

Movement:
Both sides can move an IU/Leader from one Area on the map to another adjacent Area via an ACT. A Leader moves for free with any friendly IU he is stacked with (no ACT needed) or 1 ACT if alone, can move to the nearest friendly IU on the next American ACT.

Up to 3 IUs or AMs can stack in any one Area (Leaders don’t count). Neither side can move/deploy an IU/Leader to an Area occupied by the other side. Only the BP can move units to and from the BASA to and from any adjacent Area.

Exception: AP player (only) can directly move an IU/Leader to/from Area 1 and Areas 8, 9, and 12 using an ACT; units do not have to move through Area 4 (this models “the covered way”).

Fire Combat:
Both sides IUs may conduct Fire against adjacent enemy IUs/Leaders. Indicate a single firing and target IU. Roll 1D6. 

For the BP, add +1 for an unwounded Leader in the same Area and +1 if the target is in a red # Area. A roll < (equal to or less than) the current BRL is a hit, flip the American IU to its reduced side, otherwise no effect. If already reduced, either reduce the ARL by 1 level or eliminate the IU (AP’s choice). 

On a roll of 1 (regardless of modifiers) flip a Leader (BP’s choice) in the Area to his wounded (0 modifier) side; if already wounded, eliminate the Leader. 

When the AP fires, he also roll 1D6. Subtract -1 if a Leader is in the Area with the firing IU. A roll < (equal to or less than) firing IU’s CF eliminates the target IU, otherwise no effect.

Assault:
The BP (only) may attempt the Assault ACT against defenders in red # Areas (only) by expending 2 ACTs for one assault.

Flip all IUs adjacent to the target Area to their AM sides. Use the CF printed on the IU side as the AM’s CF value.

Add them all together and subtract all defending AP’s IU and Leader CFs in the Area to find a net + roll modifier. Subtract 1 from the BP’s total if attacking a Fort Area. BP then rolls 1D6. A roll of 1-2 is 0, a 3-4 is +1 and a 5-6 is +3. Add this # result to the net + roll modifier.

The Assault succeeds if final total is > (greater than) the current ARL. Reduce 1 defending AP IU (flip over) or remove from play if already reduced. A roll > (greater than) than twice the current ARL reduces 2 AP IUs (or remove 1 if it has 2 steps). For even rolls, if a Leader is present, flip him to his wounded side; if already wounded, eliminate him. If the Area is now empty, the BP can advance his assaulting AMs, up to stacking limit (3), into the Area.

The Assault fails if final total is < (equal to or less than) the current ARL. Flip 1 AM to its IU side and remove it from play (and again, it can be re-entered by the BP).

Before the Assault is made, the AP can try to move 1 Leader from anywhere to the Area under Assault (free move) to improve his chances (once per Assault per Round per Turn). Roll 1D6. Add +1 if the Leader is wounded. A roll < to the current ARL is successful, otherwise the Leader cannot move. Flip all AMs back to their IU sides when Assault is resolved.

BRL Changes:
Increase the BRL by 1 level, but never above 4, for every 2 red # Areas that have at least 1 AM on them at turn end (and no AP units present). Reduce the BRL by 1 for every combination of 3 IUs or AMs eliminated by the AP.

ARL Changes:
Increase the ARL by 1, but never above 4, if there are no British IUs/AMs on the map at the end of any turn. Reduce the ARL by 1 the instant when: Leader Ledyard unit is eliminated. For every 2 American IUs, or Leader Latham, eliminated.

At the start of even numbered Turns only, the AP must check his overall morale. Roll 1D6. Add +1 for every 2 (round down) red # Areas with at least 1 BP IU in them. A roll < 4 is no effect, otherwise reduce the ARL by 1 level.
 

you will need this.

Play-Balance: 
I found the game is about 65% British to 35% American.  Hopefully you can do better. It is a battle where the defenders were overwhelm. Think "Alamo".  But it can be won.  I am not going to say how to play, as that is why you are playing and need to figure out, but either side can win or lose.  

Summary:
I like this little gem of a game.  I was invited to play test this game and stuck it out.  It was fun and I learned a lot about the workings of game publishing.  LPS, Inc and HFDG are bringing out more of these pbgs, so it can be safely said that PBGs are not a fad anymore due to amount and types of them now.

If you need assistance with this one, let me know. I will try my best to help you out. 

Thanks for taking the time to drop by, always a pleasure.  And I will probably add more to this review, but right now... no. 

oh yeah, one of my favorite jokes - What did the janitor say when he jumped out of the closet?  "SUPPLIES!"

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong.

 


 

11.10.23

‘O Death, made proud with pure and princely beauty!’

Blade and Bow is a set of four different ancients battles played on four different game maps while using a core set of rules.  This is the first of this "quad"- type game.

WARNING: I have tried to like this game. I tried playing it several times, but always have to stop and start over again.  Plus for a first time ever, an Ancients game did not hold my interest which is strange as I have played some winners, such as De Bellis Antiquitatis and quite a few others and some losers.  There are many reasons why, so keep reading if you are interested, and you will see what I like and don't like.

Title: Blade & Bow
Price: $*
Designer: Mike Nagel
Developer: Mike Nagel
Graphics Designer: Mike Nagel
Publisher: War Diary Publications (WD)
Published Date: 28 Sept 2023

Subject:  Blade & Bow isn't about two gangs singing, brandishing switch blades and dancing with women, "Nahhh, Suh!", it's about combat in the Ancient world, covering the Greeks, Persians, and Romans in this first go around.

Scale:  Not even going to try and figure this out. Whatever it is, it works I think.

Game Area:  Four different parts of the ancient world covering four battles from 490 BC to 479 BC.

Player Supplied Components:  The player needs to supply MORE DICE as the attacker can use up to 8 dice with only 4 provided.

Components and Physical Quality: There are no hexes on the game maps, but instead the game maps are divided into squares.  Different for sure, but according to the game designer fitting to the style of how ancient battles were conducted, linear, I think. 😁  
 
But what is truly nice is the game box, well made and it is big enough to fit 1 or 2 counter trays in it (depends on who makes the trays).  That is very good.

Counters:  These counters are 1" x .5" in size for the units, with the info counters looking to be .5" square.  

The box says that the counters are laser cut, but to me if they were, they would have no tags.  There are tags, not at the corners, but in the middle of all four sides. See below graphic in the small yellow circles.

Note: Makes it more difficult to remove the tags this way.  Have to shave the sides with danger of slicing off more than what one wants too, including a finger.

Anyway, the counters are thick, some of the thickest I have seen since the old Battleline Games, with various shades of blue and red for both sides. Notice from the graphic to the left as each counter has a lot of info!  I can't read the counters, unless I grab my readers and a magnifying glass. Too small of print.

Not to mention there are a few counters stacked on the bottom of the unit counter, used for information to show the different "ranks" from 0 to +6, (aka density markers) and the counters have a backside to show if they are disrupted. 

Game Maps:  At 17"x22" in size each, the 4 game maps are a shade of green with unit setup spaces, camps, hills, and rivers. Rivers are in blue, roads are lighter in the green colour. Hills and trees are black or a very dark gray (if you look at the trees, there are shadows).  The maps are very busy, with all the rubble, trees, shrubs, bush, what have you.

No expanding on the artiste palette here. And I can see if someone has difficulty seeing certain colours having a time with these maps, especially with black/dark gray ink used on green. 

Cards: Yes, accordingly to the new way of making a game, a game is not complete unless cards are needed. Seems every damn game I have bought has cards that need to be used... and I have grown so use to cards, if a game doesn't have then, I feel cheated for some reason. Oh well. 😁

The cards look to be regulation size, with a nice background and a lot of info on the front - a lot of information. If you sleeve, these took my Dragon Shield side loading sleeves (AT-13101) at 63mm x 88mm or 2.5" x 3.5".  

Why Dragon Shield? I got a ton of sleeves of various sizes and manufacturers and these were just the first ones I grab. Good for meeeeeee. 😂

Player Aids:  Yes, several PAs are included with the game. Such as the terrain chart on one side with a detailed leader / unit diagrams, unit facings, Sequence of play, etc on the other.  And there is the important Tracking Chart (not shown).

Scenarios:  The scenarios are of Marathon 490 BC, Thermopylae 480 BC, Plataea 479 BC, and Mycale 479 BC. Each has a scenario card listing the amount and type of units available to each side, victory conditions, etc.

Setup Time:  From 15 minutes for Thermopylae to possible 20 minutes+ for the others.  Got to dig out the counters, the density markers, leader counters, etc. 
 
Playing Time:  The designer says that a game can be from two to three hours long... right... My first game was a couple of hours and was Thermopylae.  We only got thru to the beginning of turn 2 when I gave up.  Next game was at 4 hours, to turn 3, and at that point I couldn't take it any more and "skedaddled" the hell out of the game.  Then had another try, but after re-reading the rules becoming more frustrated, so nope.
 
Complexity:  The game is rated somewhere between low to moderate in complexity. Maybe to someone who plays tactical games such as Squad Leader and the like of the new ones from Lock n Load, GMT, Compass and I am sure a few other companies make them too, this game would be "easy" or low complexity. But it was hard to next-to-impossible for me.

What I did not like or soap box time:  I found the game very hard to play and understand. The rules were very confusing and seems to need a lot of extra counters for nothing, but to show how many lines of troops or the density of a unit - lol, as bad as having 4 counters for unit breakdown in some games.

Another thing I do not care for is the game using "bucket of dice"  for it's CRT with possibility of rolling up to 8 dice depending on the scenario or card draw. 

1's or 2's hit, while 5's or 6's can reduce an enemy dice roll (9.4.6 "Resolve the Melee"). Too much noise and shades of Risk or Tunnels & Trolls (a RPG) with it's gobs n gobs of dice.  Maybe it is the feeling of power that one has if they roll lots of dice? I don't know.

And re-rolls are possible (rules 9.4.7, 9.7.4.1, and 9.4.7.2). WHAT?!? I can see Leonidas yelling at Xerxes, "DO OVER on those archers!".  Huh?!? I guess. NO, thank you, as what is rolled is rolled.

That's it:  And from here I am ending this review.  Not so much a review I guess. Did I waste my money? Hmmm, probably, but it gave me a chance to see a game from this designer/developer/graphics designer and learned not to waste anymore of my money on any of his other games. 

At first, I wasn't going to write this review, but after seeing and reading that Nagel gave himself a 10 rating on BGG to balance out the ratings (from my original "2", that was down graded to a "1" to balance out his rating. Why not? What is good for the goose is good for the gander. 😏 ) and commented that I did not play the game, I decided "well, go for it" as that statement he made is truly false. Of course I tried to play it 3 times! No play no review.

My favorite set of Ancient mini rules was and is De Bellis Antiquitatis. Great set of rules, even today, simple, fun, and cost effective for minis, but I know Phil Barker didn't appreciate or like anyone calling "shenanigans" on his rule sets, maybe it is the same here? I don't know, but possible. 
 
And I do have a favorite wargame of this period and it is HFDG's  A Clash of Chariots: The Battle of Kadesh, 1274 BC. Sort of one of those "waddle" games, though with hexes. Nicely done game is what I say.
 
Now some folks may like this game B&B and that is good as not everyone likes the same type of ice cream - I like coconut ice cream myself (thank you Southeast Asia tours) and only want enough people to like it, so it still gets made and sold over here. 😋
 
Note: $* means I have no idea of the cost as it is of two different prices.  Things change too much these days and I don't want to go back and have to change the blog again.
 
Off the soap box:   But to show I am not a beast (oh meow), here is some info for y'all -
 
if you would want to read the rules of the game, a pre-War Diary low res pdf is available here. It is a little different and only 20 pages, versus 23, but that is probably because of the designer's notes at the end and the low-res graphics do suck, but with enough squinting, ok.  Take your time, read the rules fully, don't hurry thru them. And make up your own mind.  
 
And after reading the rules, if you would like to purchase  this game, please go here. If you are a WD subscriber, you can get the game at a reduce rate.  
 
Note - you can subscribe at the same time as buying the game. War Diary is a great gamer magazine and offers the mag in both a paper copy or pdf (cheaper).
 
You may want to look at some of his other games, revamps of two Avalon Hill Games - 1914 and Guadalcanal.  New maps, counters, and rules, etc.  They are on the same page as Blade & Bow. 
 
Folks may like this game, then my best to all. Enjoy and sleeve, as nacho cheese and finger crud is not good for game cards (or baseball cards as "Comic book guy" found out). 
 
And please do notice, I do not use the new fangled idea of using BCE (Before Common Era) or CE (Common Era). These were from liberal thinking jerks who wanted to get religion out of everything.  I remember while in college a new history book and geography book came out that replaced BC and AD with this crap.  No, I told the professor, I will still use the old way.  I never got dinged for that.  
 
And though the title of this review is from Shakespeare, King John, Act 4, Scene 3, it fits the game for everything, from game maps to the counters to the rules. They are pretty, but (here is the second part of the quote)...
 
'The earth had not a hole to hide this deed'

-ab
 
 
This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong. And, if you don't want your graphics used for this review, let me know. I will remove them FAST.