Operation Fustian "The 1st Bridge Too Far"

Title: Operation Fustian - The Battle for Primosole Bridge July 12-15, 1943
Price: $*
Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh
Graphics Designer:  Antonio Piñar Peña
Publisher: High Flying Dice Games
Published Date: 2020

 

Subject: Operation Fustian was a military operation carried out by the 1st Parachute Brigade, part of the British 1st Airborne Division during the Allied invasion of Sicily in July 1943. The operation's objective was to capture the Primosole Bridge across the Simeto River.

Abbreviations Used: Arty=Artillery, ACT=Activations, AB=Airborne Brigade, AP=Axis Player (Italian,  German), BP=British Player, CB=Coastal Battalions (Italian), CD=Card Draw, CF=Combat Factor, DR=Die Roll, Inf=Infantry, MG=Machine Gun (German), MP=Movement Point, 1D6= one die six, Paras=Paratroops (British), CE/RE=Combat/Royal Engineers, AT=Anti-Tank. (page 3)

Scale:  Each hex is about 1/2 mile across and each turn is 8 hours of time. Inf/Paras are companies in size and armor units are 4 vehicles (when reduce, 2 vehicles). (see 1.2)

Components and Physical Quality: The graphic designer for this game is Antonio Pinar Peña and as it was said back in 1985 on SNL's Fernando's Hideaway - "Dahling, I have to tell you something. And I don't say this to everybody, your graphics look mahvelous!". 😀

 

The game map, player's aid, and counters are fantastic.  I really do enjoy his graphics and rate him in the top 10% of his profession. As of this review, he has graphically designed 29 games.  I wish him luck in everything he does.

Counters: Eighty unmounted double-sided counters that are aprx 14mm (9/16") in size on what appears to be 110lb weight paper stock.  

 

There are 16 counters of Italians in grey-green, 13 counters of Germans in dark gray (or black, just calling it as I see it) (including one Luftwaffe support counter), 24 counters of British in khaki (including one arty and naval support counters), and twenty-six  counters of Low Ammo/Entrenched counters. Last, but not least, the game turn counter. 

One will need to mount the counters or have HFDG do this for them, with a cost involved.  So why have HFDG mount your counters? Well, to get them lined up is not so easy.  Plus, the cardboard HFDG uses is pretty nice and importantly, one less thing to do before playing the game. One will still need to cut out the counters.

Game Map: An excellent realistic good looking game map... Honestly, I can smell the fields and the water.   This is just a small sample of the 8.5" x 11.0" game map on the right.

Players Aid Sheet:  Highly important. Not only is the Turn Record Track on this, but also the terrain effects for movement and combat.  And the Random Events Table that is used when the 1st Joker is drawn. (see 1.0)

Complexity: Introductory, with no variant rules, but do not let that nomenclature fool you, as it is no beginner's game.  Simple yes, simplistic no. It has a lot of very good ideas and plays like games four times it's size and expense.

Rules:  Would you believe 6 single pages? The rules are nicely printed on high quality paper with a good feel to them. Not some 10 lb copy paper, but true printer heavy paper.  What is nice about this rule set is that the important rules are pre-hi-lighted in yellow.  And saying it has 6 pages is not true. Pages 3 to 6 have the rules, page 1 is just the title page and page 2 is a chart showing the units and their formations.

 

OK, this might seem like I am confused, as I will be jumping around.  To be honest, I am, as the weather is playing havoc with my head.  I have listed the rules each paragraph is talking about like so (see #.#).

Player Supplied Components: A standard card deck (or the HFDG card set) is a must and as is 1D6. (see 1.1)

 

Deck Setup: All of the cards are combined into one deck, including both jokers and all face cards.  (see 1.0)
 

The chart to the left shows how many acts a card gives.  BP uses Red cards while the AP uses black. Note: I think I included everything a certain card draw does (such as face cards).

It is important to know to ignore the 2nd Joker if it is drawn before both players have been able to activate and play until all cards are drawn. If not the last turn, shuffle the deck, advance the turn marker and continue play. Game lasts 11 turns. (see 1.2)

 

Please do note that the card draw is used for the number of activations available to a player, with each activation being used to allow either combat or movement or entrenching a unit or recover once per unit per round (CDs), with many rounds in a turn.  (see 3.0, 3.2, 3.3, and 4.0)

 

And yes, there is a card set available for the game.  From HFDG, cost is $*. Order from them by clicking here. Enter which card set you want to buy on the last page in the box at the bottom.

 

Is it needed? Only you can say that.  I find it has all of the information needed in a very easier to read and understand format as shown to the left.

Note: $* means I have no idea the cost.

 

Game Setup:  The Axis Player sets up first using the setup guide.  (see 2.0, 2.1,  and 2.1.1)

The British sets up second according to the setup guide and conducts the paratrooper/glider landings  and sets up the British Reinforcement schedule. (see 2.2, 2.2.1, and 2.2.2)

And don't forget to reshuffle the card deck to start the game!

Formations:  In a lot of games, one doesn't need to keep track of unit formations, however in this game formations are important for the correct setup and stacking (allows up to 2 units to share a hex). (see 2.1, 2.1.1, 2.2, 2.2.2, and 3.1) 

 

Each country has units in formations that are color coded representing paras (considered inf for play), inf, and armor.  AT and Combat/Royal Engineers do not have a formation stripe and can stack with any nationality unit. (see 3.1 and 5.0)    

Special Units:  Some units have an asterisked * to indicate these are units with special abilities. AT, Armor (Tank), and CE/RE have an *, allowing these units to increase the CF of any inf unit it is stacked with by 1 or said unit can attack with their own CF.  (see 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, and 5.3)

 

Armor units in addition to the *, have a red square under their MF to signified that the BP needs to roll 1D6 when the tank unit enters a non-bridge river or canal hex side, or enters a cultivated hex.  I believe it is to see if the tank unit gets stuck in the mud (see 5.1.1). 

 

Armor has the ability for one armor unit to freely stack in a hex with 2 other units (and use it's +1 CF increase). There is no Zone of Control and combat is voluntary. (see 3.1, 4.0, and 5.1) 

Support attacks such as Air, Arty, and Naval are resolved by 1D6 and do not require an activation.  (see 4.0 and 5.4) 

Units can "entrench", which offers a +1 CD attack modifier (or +1 DR if attacked via Air, Arty or Naval), against the entrenched unit when it is attacked. (see 3.2)

A reduced unit can attempt a full recovery with a 1D6 check.  (see 3.3)

 

Combat: Units have a range of 2 hexes.  Units can fire into but not through hills and cultivated hexes.  Naval, Air, and arty support units can attack any unit (no range limit.). Remember, a unit can either move or have combat, not both from an activation during a round. (see 4.0)

Add the hex terrain modifier, subtract the CD bonus modifier if an AT or Armor is stacked in the hex. This is used even if the target unit is 2 hexes away.  The engineer is used the same way, EXCEPT it can only subtract the CD bonus if attacking 1 hex away. (see 4.0, 5.1 and 5.2)

 

Low Ammo: The BP can suffer from low ammo if the BP draws a face card when resolving a Paratrooper unit's attack.  Units that suffer this have their CF reduced by 1.  Axis Player and British reinforcement units do not suffer this.  And when any BP reinforcement units enter the game, all Low Ammo markers are removed.  (see 4.1) 

Winning the Game:  The Axis Player wins by controlling one or both hexes of Primosole bridge.  The BP wins by controlling both hexes and having 1 to 4 units north of the Simeto River.   (see 6.0)

 

Playing Time: From 2 to 3 hours, easy.

Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10): I would say it is about a 9.   Remember, just about any game can be played solo. This one is no different and is how I played it, still fun and without the bother of having to supply the beer and chips to an ungrateful guest complaining about using cards.
 

Addenda:  Yes, just a couple of lines.  And here it is -

Operation Fustian
Addenda, November 2023

2.2.1 Paratrooper Landings (correction):  A Paratrooper unit is unaffected if the CD is less than or equal to 4 (the underscore beneath the less than sign is missing).

3.0 Activations (correction): Disregard case “d” as this is holdover text from the play test version of the game that should have been deleted. Rule 4.1 is correct and the only way by which the Low Ammo markers can be removed.

3.2 Entrenchments (addition). Units in Fortified Terrain may not entrench.

Player asked Clarifications:  Several questions have been asked these past few years concerning the game.  Here are the answers.

 1. Per 4.0 the modified CD result is compared to the attacking unit's CF. If the modified CD is less than or equal to the attacking unit's CF the target is reduced; if greater then there is no effect (attacker missed).
 

2. Per rules 1.0 and 3.0 each unit activates individually. When activated an activated unit can do ONE of the listed actions in rule 3.0. Per rule 5.1 an activated attacking unit can have its CF increased if stacked with an armor or AT unit (and/or Engineer unit).
 

3. Since units activate individually, multiple units can attack the same target but each requires its own activation and each of their attacks are resolved individually.

4. Per rule 4.1 the low ammo markers are removed as soon as any British reinforcement unit enters the game. There is no other way to remove a low ammo marker.

5. Per the rule 3.1, one British tank unit stacks for free, so it can stack with 2 units (making 3 to the hex).

 

Not part of the errata (sorry, I mean "addenda") is just something to be aware of -  there are CD modifiers, meaning a "card draw" modifier (such as "entrenching") and there are CF modifiers, meaning Combat Factor modifiers (such as "Low Ammo") and a Die Roll modifier (such as the "Arty, Naval and Air support" attacking an entrenched unit DR) in the game.

Play-Balance:  The game is finely balanced, giving either side a 50% - 50% chance of losing or winning.  That is until the British reinforcements arrive.  At that point, the low ammo chits are removed, the armor adds another +1 CF and the Axis player better hope that "lady luck" comes into play.  IMHO, the British chances for the game goes up to 65% to 35%, still possible to win for the Axis, though, especially a "wily Axis player".

 

Airborne operations were always risky and problematic affairs and this game, though small in size, is bigger in stature than many games that are larger and cost a hell of a lot more, shows this in detail.    

 

It is a very intense game and using the card draw system for activations (movement and resolving combat) combining said activations with entrenching (digging in), rallying (recovery), low ammo, having certain units able to improve the attack and defense, plus the landing of the paratroopers (which was an actual mess for the battle), make for a daring game of cat and mouse.  I found it fun, easy to understand, and a hoot to play.  

 

Soapbox time: Why use playing cards for activations?  This is a question I am asked from time to time, as really there is no simple way to show the frustrations or the chaotic nature of combat. Minutes seem like hours, seconds seem like minutes, everything speeds up or slows down, at least from what I remember. Some parts of a unit may attack or not. I remember there were several people in the platoon during combat, who even when they fired their weapon, didn't aim for people and some folks hunkered down without firing their weapon.  Many a time, one could hear rifle fire after the battle, just incase Gunny did a weapons check.

 

Pulling chits (as some of HFDG games use) is one way. But what if one doesn't really have the entire OOB of units or doesn't want to have tons of chits? Right!!! Using a card draw system allows a designer to show the stop-start motion of combat, without resorting to having more pull chits for leaders or other rules than necessary. I really do like this way of gaming.  It allows a good play without having an umpire.

 

Will I play it again? You bet.  Right now it is my game of the month, just edging out  "A Scourge of Stone and Spirit: The Siege of Harfleur, 1415".  I haven't had fun like this in a while and I actually owe it to "Guarding the Land", a PBG for getting me back into playing games.  

Let me know how you like this game in the comments section. I would appreciate knowing your thoughts on the game, what you may or may not like.  And of course if you find anything wrong in my review. 

 

Happy Thanksgiving 2023,

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors, or update with new information. Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong.

Happy Birthday Marines!

Today, Marines celebrate the 248th birthday of our beloved Corps. The history of the United States Marine Corps (USMC) begins with the founding of the Continental Marines at Tun Tavern in Philadelphia on 10 November 1775. The United States Marine Corps has served in nearly every conflict in United States history.

 

Here is the 248th Birthday Message from the Commandant...

10 November 2023

A MESSAGE FROM THE COMMANDANT OF THE MARINE CORPS

             For 248 years, Marines have earned a reputation as the most disciplined and lethal warfighters in the world. This legacy of honor, courage, and commitment passed on to us was paid for in sweat, blood, and sacrifice. From Belleau Wood to Inchon and Tarawa to Sangin, Marines have stepped forward to defend our Constitution when others either could not or would not. Our history is filled with heroes like Chief Warrant Officer 4 Hershel "Woody" Williams, Private First Class Hector Cafferata Jr., Sergeant Major Dan Daly, and thousands of others who performed acts of bravery which went unseen in the heat of battle. We stand on the shoulders of these Marines, and we owe it to them to earn our title "Marine" each and every day.

             Marines have given, and have been willing to give, their lives for Country and Corps in every fight our Nation has entered. Our actions turned back the tide of tyranny in Europe during the Great War, defeated fascism in Asia during World War II, fought for democracy in Korea and Vietnam, and offered the hope of self-determination in the Middle East. We go to war whenever our Nation calls, and in the interwar periods we train, we prepare, and we innovate. We have chosen a life of service and sacrifice — an honorable life that has meaning. We sacrifice so our fellow citizens don't have to, and we seek nothing in return but a chance to be first to fight. Most will never understand why we choose to attack when others do not, why we revel in being covered in mud, why we snap to attention when "The Marines' Hymn" is played, or why we say, "Ooh Rah." We understand it, and this message is for us, for the Marines.

             As Marines, we live on a war footing because someone must. This means that we ruthlessly adhere to our standards of excellence — Marine standards — as we know this will best prepare us for the wars of the future. Our high standards are a prerequisite of professional warfighting, and how we keep our honor clean in the cauldron of combat. They prepare us for the most difficult mission there is: fighting from and returning to the sea. Most importantly they shape our unique Marine culture which is respected at home and across the globe.

             Sergeant Major Ruiz and I are proud of all that you have done this past year to protect and enhance our reputation as America's best warriors. We hope you know that we will be with you every step of the way as we prepare for the fights ahead. We ask that every Marine - active, reserve, and veteran - honor the legacy of those who went before us by continuing to uphold our high standards.

             Protect your fellow Marines and our shared legacy. Happy Birthday Marines!

 

---

No longer green, not as mean, not as lean, but still a Marine. 

Semper Fi Marines,

-ab

"Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more..."

Title: A Scourge of Stone and Spirit: The Siege of Harfleur, 1415
Price: $*
Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh
Graphics Designer: Tim Allen
Publisher: High Flying Dice Games
Published Date: 2022

Subject:  The siege of the port of Harfleur France by the English King Henry V, in 1415 during the 100 Years War.   

 A little history:  This battle was part of the 100 Years War (1337 AD to 1453 AD, actually 116 years long). In Mid-August 1415, Henry V invaded Normandy with an army of around 10,000 men to besiege and captured the port of Harfleur after a gruelling five-week siege on Sept 22, 1415.  This is also recorded as  the first time in a siege that gun powder cannons were used.

With winter coming and his force already depleted to aprx 6,000-7,000 men by the fighting and a wave of bloody flux (aka dysentery - still a killer of a million+ a year in this day and age), Henry decided to withdraw to English-held Calais and regroup.  What happen after the siege a month later is the "Battle of Agincourt" occurring on Saint Crispin's day, 25 October 1415AD.  

 

This campaign of Henry the V was also in the Late Middle Ages, forever immortalize equivalent of a TV movie,  Shakespeare's play "Henry V", around 1599.  A very good play, click here if you would like a free pdf of it.

Abbreviations Used:  WA=Wall Area, M=French Militia Unit, FMaA=French Men At Arms, EMaA=English Men At Arms, FP=French Player, EP=English Player, ERL=English Resistance Level, FRL=French Resistance Level,  EB=English Breach marker (the back side of the EMaA), EAL=English Artillery Level, EML=English Mining Level, CF=Combat Factor, CD=Card Draw, LDR=Leader, ACT=Activation, TM=Turn Marker, TRT=Turn Record Track. PBG=Pocket Battle Game, 1D6= one die-6 sided, RE=Random Event. I am going to do my best to use these in the review and I am NOT going to use the obvious abbreviation for Breach Marker.

Hey, I've seen this before:   Why yes, yes you have. 😲 The gaming system has been used in few other games that Paul has designed.  I recognized one, but he put me straight onto the others.  The first is the pbg "Nothing So Well Lost: The Siege of Rhodes", "Guarding the Land: The Siege of Fort Griswold" (the last review I did and the one I recognized), "Not Men But Devils", and "Surrender Unto Caesar". 👍 

Note: Being part of a small group of games that are not the same, but very close is a good idea. I know when I like something, I wouldn't mind playing a few other games like it.

Player Supplied Components: The player will need to supply 1D6 and a deck of cards or purchase the card set from HFDG. (1.0) 

Components and Physical Quality:  The graphics designer or "artist" is Tim Allen.  With (at the time of this review) 109 games in print, Tim looks to be on every game publishers list of artists.  Also, the principle artist used by Victory Point Games (I wish they were still active in the publishing world), and used by others such as High Flying Dice Games, his work is legendary. 

Game Map: The game map is of the surrounding area around Harfleur France and is presented to us as area movement.  This is IMHO about the only correct way to show the siege of an entire town.  At 8.5" x 11" in size it is larger than a PBG, but small enough to take on trips.  How small? Heck, I bought the game within a few days of it coming out, but lost it until a few days ago.  I had used it as a book marker in a large book.  Thank goodness I needed to look at that map of Gettysburg last week!  😁

Counters: The counters are double sided and small in number, only 21 total.  Also, the counters are 18mm (bigger than usual, very NICE for these old fingers). 

The English have 9 Men At Arms on one side and a wall breach on the other, 1 ERL marker, 1 EAL marker, and 1 EML marker.  While the French have 2 men at arms and 4 Militia. These are on both sides with one side being a reduction, 1 LDR, and 1 FRL.  There is also a turn marker. (1.0)

One will need to mount the counters.  If you never mounted counters before, you can click here to see how to do.  

Of course one can purchase mounted counters from HFDG, but one will need to cut them apart using a #11 knife or a utility knife.  Price is $* for this service.  Why do this? Well, lining up a front and back is a little bit hectic to get it "just right" and if you like thick counters....  

Note: $* means I have no idea of the cost these days.  Things change too much these days and I don't want to go back and have to change the blog again.

Complexity: The game is considered introductory, though  there are 3 variant rules to increase the complexity, such as taking into account an Impatient King, Boggy Ground, and Critical Walls.  I would recommend that all 3 variant rules be used. (12.0, 12.1, 12.2) 

Is There a Card Set: You bet! Here is what the HFDG card deck looks like.  Pretty snazzy, these are. Why get 'em?  Well, you won't have to do all sorts of removing cards to get the cards ready for play. And these are designed for the game. Order from HFDG by clicking here. Enter which card set you want on the last page in the box at the bottom.

Setup Time: About 5 minutes, if that long.  Actually longer to get the card deck ready than game setup.

Playing Time: Anywhere from 30 mins to maybe an hour.  Me, I am use to the gaming system and play (the card draw is actually a favorite of mine), 20 min to 45min easy.

Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10): Very rare do I have the time to play a live opponent.  I gamed this one solo and found it to be fun and exciting.

Addenda: Yes and it is below-

Page 1, 2.0 Play of Game (correction): The player that draws the first Joker card performs a Random Event DR check.

On Page 3, 11.0 Random Events, DR = 6. (count sentences)
Sentence 3 - clarification - If a French unit is returned to play, it enters reduce.
Sentence 4 - If the DR result is <  there are no reinforcements.  Put an underline under the < sign as it should be "less than or equal to".
Sentence 5 - remove the words "or less" after "DR result was 1 or less".

Note: as of Oct 27 2023, the above addenda has been fixed in the game rules. 

Card Deck Setup: Using a regular deck of cards, remove all the face cards, separate the cards into two decks by color, a red deck for the British Player (BP) and a black deck for the French Player (FP).  Each player gets a "Joker", too. Shuffle the deck.  Remember, Aces are not consider face cards and are "odd" or "1".  (1.0)

Rule Differences: The rules are very polished and straight to the point.  If you have played PBGs and most of HFDG games, then you will know of the card draw system.  I am going to only touch on the little differences this game has.  

Note - Numbers such as (2.0 or 6.0) after the sentence refers to the rules section where you can read the rules.

The game has 7 turns consisting of many rounds.  Players turn their top card over and highest card wins the round - 

1) If the winning card is odd, the winner can do 1 ACT then the loser of the round can do 1 ACT. (2.0)

2) If the winning card is even, then the winner can do 2 ACTs and the loser of the round gets 1 ACT.  (2.0)

3) If the CD is tied, then no one gets an ACT and play proceeds to the next CD. (see 2.0)

4) If a joker is drawn, then the person who drew it rolls on the Random Event table. (2.0 and 11.0)

5) When a joker is drawn a second time, play stops. The turn marker is moved to the next turn, decks are reshuffled, and play begins again until the FRL is reduced to 0 at the end of any turn, or no later than turn 7.  Any other result, the FP wins. (9.0 and 10.0)

6) No EMaA starts the game on the map. The EP brings them into play by first creating Breach Markers. Up to 3 breach markers can accumulate in any one WA.  And on the back of the EMaM are the "Breach Markers"(2.0).

The Game has a few differences when it comes to the Activations (ACTs). Each ACT allows a side to do one of the following (3.0):

1) Bombardment (see 4.0) (both) or
2) Mining (see 5.0) (EP only) or
3) Assault (see 6.0) (EP only) or
4) Counter-mining (see 7.0) (FP only) or
5) Sally (see 8.0) (FP Only)

Other things that can be done in an ACT-
1) The EP can recycle "Breach Markers" by voluntary removing them from the WAs (no ACT required) during that player's portion of a Round. (3.0)

2) Also the FP (only) may move 1 (odd CD) or 2 (even CD) unit(s) (this is a free move) to and from any WAs before performing an ACT, but ONLY if the FP wins the round. (3.0)

Play-Balance:  The primary focus is on the English as they need to be attacking to win the game.  I have played 20 or so games and out of them, the English have won 15 or 16, I lost count.  I believe it is probably 60% to 40% in favor of the English.

Summary: Why a card draw system? Simple. Battles are chaotic affairs. Nothing goes right 100% of the time and those things that do, one chalks it up to the war gods picking a side.  Using the cards for movement and attack shows how command and control basically goes right out the window. People hide, run away, with too much smoke, battle noise, and confusion reigning supreme.  Nothing is perfect.  Outside of using an umpire to manage a game, using a card draw simulates these problems well.   

Using area movement, the breaching of the town's walls, mining, counter-mining, the French sally forth using a card draw system and area movement shows a lot of thought and play-testing to make this game work and feel like a siege. 

Though the game's footprint is small, the rules are finely written and mesh well together.  I believe this is the first, if not the only game to show the siege of Harfleur and though this is a small game, the design of it is truly huge.

This siege of Harfleur and battle for the town is the start of Henry V's reign as king, leading up to one of the most important English battles in history a month later, Agincourt.

I do believe you will like this game. Not many counters, but a lot of good play.
-ab

The game’s afoot.
Follow your spirit, and upon this charge
Cry “God for Harry, England, and Saint George!”

William Shakespeare's Henry V, Act 3, Scene 1

 

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information. Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong.