‘O Death, made proud with pure and princely beauty!’

Blade and Bow is a set of four different ancients battles played on four different game maps while using a core set of rules.  This is the first of this "quad"- type game.

WARNING: I have tried to like this game. I tried playing it several times, but always had to stop and start over again.  Plus for a first time ever, an Ancients game did not hold my interest which is strange as I have played some winners, such as De Bellis Antiquitatis, quite a few others, and some losers.  There are many reasons why, so keep reading if you are interested, and you will see what I like and don't like.

Title: Blade & Bow
Price: $*
Designer: Mike Nagel
Developer: Mike Nagel
Graphics Designer: Mike Nagel
Publisher: War Diary Publications (WD)
Published Date: 28 Sept 2023

Subject:  Blade & Bow isn't about two gangs singing, brandishing switch blades and dancing with women, "Nahhh, Suh!", it's about combat in the Ancient world, covering the Greeks, Persians, and Romans in this first go around.

Scale:  Not even going to try and figure this out. Whatever it is, it works I think.

Game Area:  Four different parts of the ancient world covering four battles from 490 BC to 479 BC.

Player Supplied Components:  The player needs to supply MORE DICE as the attacker can use up to 8 dice with only 4 provided.

Components and Physical Quality: There are no hexes on the game maps, but instead the game maps are divided into squares.  Different for sure, but according to the game designer fitting to the style of how ancient battles were conducted, linear, I think. 😁  

 

But what is truly nice is the game box, well made and it is big enough to fit 1 or 2 counter trays in it (depends on who makes the trays).  That is very good.

Counters:  These counters are 1" x .5" in size for the units, with the info counters looking to be .5" square.  

The box says that the counters are laser cut, but to me if they were, they would have no tags.  There are tags, not at the corners, but in the middle of all four sides. See below graphic in the small yellow circles.

Note: Makes it more difficult to remove the tags this way.  Have to shave the sides with danger of slicing off more than what one wants too, including a finger.

Anyway, the counters are thick, some of the thickest I have seen since the old Battleline Games, with various shades of blue and red for both sides. Notice from the graphic to the left as each counter has a lot of info!  I can't read the counters, unless I grab my readers and a magnifying glass. Too small of print.

Not to mention there are a few counters stacked on the bottom of the unit counter, used for information to show the different "ranks" from 0 to +6, (aka density markers) and the counters have a backside to show if they are disrupted. 

Game Maps:  At 17"x22" in size each, the 4 game maps are a shade of green with unit setup spaces, camps, hills, and rivers. Rivers are in blue, roads are lighter in the green colour. Hills and trees are black or a very dark gray (if you look at the trees, there are shadows).  The maps are very busy, with all the rubble, trees, shrubs, bush, what have you.

No expanding on the artiste palette here. And I can see if someone has difficulty seeing certain colours having a time with these maps, especially with black/dark gray ink used on green. 

Cards: Yes, accordingly to the new way of making a game, a game is not complete unless cards are needed. Seems every damn game I have bought has cards that need to be used... and I have grown so use to cards, if a game doesn't have then, I feel cheated for some reason. Oh well. 😁

The cards look to be regulation size, with a nice background and a lot of info on the front - a lot of information. If you sleeve, these took my Dragon Shield side loading sleeves (AT-13101) at 63mm x 88mm or 2.5" x 3.5".  

Why Dragon Shield? I got a ton of sleeves of various sizes and manufacturers and these were just the first ones I grab. Good for meeeeeee. 😂

Player Aids:  Yes, several PAs are included with the game. Such as the terrain chart on one side with a detailed leader / unit diagrams, unit facings, Sequence of play, etc on the other.  And there is the important Tracking Chart (not shown).

Scenarios:  The scenarios are of Marathon 490 BC, Thermopylae 480 BC, Plataea 479 BC, and Mycale 479 BC. Each has a scenario card listing the amount and type of units available to each side, victory conditions, etc.

Setup Time:  From 15 minutes for Thermopylae to possible 20 minutes+ for the others.  Got to dig out the counters, the density markers, leader counters, etc. 

 

Playing Time:  The designer says that a game can be from two to three hours long... right... My first game was a couple of hours and was Thermopylae.  We only got thru to the beginning of turn 2 when I gave up.  Next game was at 4 hours, to turn 3, and at that point I couldn't take it any more and "skedaddled" the hell out of the game.  Then had another try, but after re-reading the rules becoming more frustrated, so no.

 

Complexity:  The game is rated somewhere between low to moderate in complexity. Maybe to someone who plays tactical games such as Squad Leader and the like of the new tactical ones from Lock n Load, GMT, Compass and I am sure a few other companies make them too, this game would be "easy" or low complexity. But it was hard to next-to-impossible for me.

What I did not like or soap box time:  I found the game very hard to play and understand. The rules were very confusing and seems to need a lot of extra counters for nothing, but to show how many lines of troops or the density of a unit - lol, as bad as having 4 counters for unit breakdown in some games.  If I want to play a miniatures game, then I would break out my Ancients 15 minis and go to town.  But I don't, I want to play a board game.

Another thing I do not care for is the game using "bucket of dice"  for it's CRT with possibility of rolling up to 8 dice depending on the scenario or card draw. 

1's or 2's hit, while 5's or 6's can reduce an enemy dice roll (9.4.6 "Resolve the Melee"). Too much noise and shades of Risk or Tunnels & Trolls (a RPG) with it's gobs n gobs of dice.  Maybe it is the feeling of power that one has if they roll lots of dice? I don't know.

And re-rolls are possible (rules 9.4.7, 9.7.4.1, and 9.4.7.2). WHAT?!? I can see Leonidas yelling at Xerxes, "DO OVER on those archers!".  Huh?!? I guess. NO, thank you, as what is rolled is rolled.

That's it:  And from here I am ending this review.  Not so much a review I guess. Did I waste my money? Hmmm, probably, but it gave me a chance to see a game from this designer/developer/graphics designer and learned not to waste anymore of my money on any of his other games. 

At first, I wasn't going to write this review, but after seeing and reading that Nagel gave himself a 10 rating on BGG to balance out the ratings (from my original "2", that was down graded to a "1" to balance out his rating. Why not? What is good for the goose is good for the gander. 😏 ) and commented that I did not play the game, I decided "well, go for it" as that statement he made is truly false. Of course I tried to play it 3 times! No play, no review.

My favorite set of Ancient mini rules was and is De Bellis Antiquitatis. Great set of rules, even today, simple, fun, and cost effective for minis, but I know Phil Barker didn't appreciate or like anyone calling "shenanigans" on his rule sets, maybe it is the same here? I don't know, but possible. 

 

And I do have a favorite wargame of this period and it is HFDG's  A Clash of Chariots: The Battle of Kadesh, 1274 BC. Sort of one of those "waddle" games, though with hexes. Nicely done game is what I say.

 

Now some folks may like this game B&B and that is good as not everyone likes the same type of ice cream - I like coconut ice cream myself (thank you Southeast Asia tours) and only want enough people to like it, so it still gets made and sold over here. 😋

 

Note: $* means I have no idea of the cost as it is of two different prices.  Things change too much these days and I don't want to go back and have to change the blog again.

 

Off the soap box:   But to show I am not a beast (oh meow), here is some info for y'all -

 

if you would want to read the rules of the game, a pre-War Diary low res pdf is available here. It is a little different and only 20 pages, versus 23, but that is probably because of the designer's notes at the end and the low-res graphics do suck, but with enough squinting, ok.  Take your time, read the rules fully, don't hurry thru them. And make up your own mind.  

 

And after reading the rules, if you would like to purchase  this game, please go here. If you are a WD subscriber, you can get the game at a reduce rate.  

 

Note - you can subscribe at the same time as buying the game. War Diary is a great gamer magazine and offers the mag in both a paper copy or pdf (cheaper).

 

You may want to look at some of his other games, revamps of two Avalon Hill Games - 1914 and Guadalcanal.  New maps, counters, and rules, etc.  They are on the same page as Blade & Bow. 

 

Folks may like this game, then my best to all. Enjoy and sleeve, as nacho cheese and finger crud is not good for game cards (or baseball cards as "Comic book guy" found out). 

 

And please do notice, I do not use the new fangled idea of using BCE (Before Common Era) or CE (Common Era). These were from liberal thinking jerks who wanted to get religion out of everything.  I remember while in college a new history book and geography book came out that replaced BC and AD with this crap.  No, I told the professor, I will still use the old way.  I never got dinged for that.  

 

And though the title of this review is from Shakespeare, King John, Act 4, Scene 3, it fits the game for everything, from game maps to the counters to the rules. They are pretty, but (here is the second part of the quote)...

 

'The earth had not a hole to hide this deed'

-ab

 

 

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong. And, if you don't want your graphics used for this review, let me know. I will remove them FAST. 

"Grant me Night... or Blücher!"

 

Title: "Grant me Night... or Blücher!"
Price: $0 free with a purchase or buy The Waterloo PBG Pack from ATO
Series: Pocket Battle game #29
Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh
Graphics Designer: Mark Mahaffey
Publisher: LPS, Inc
Published Date: 2022

A little history:  The absolute essential ingredient for a French victory at Waterloo was for the Prussians not to arrive, as the Prussian assault on this village of Plancenoit was the single biggest factor that cost the French a victory at Waterloo.

Up until now Wellington was on the back foot and would have been beaten without Blucher's army. In the second stage of the battle, the Duke said: "Give me night or give me Blücher"*.  The Duke got his wish, finally the green uniformed Prussians and their allies arrived in the afternoon.

To halt the Prussians Napoleon first dispatched Lobau's corps, and two cavalry divisions, and then part of his Imperial Guard. Napoleon's force available for attacking Wellington was instantly reduced by over 10,000 men. Napoleon had started this day with an infantry reserve of 36 infantry battalions, keeping Plancenoit cost him 25 of them. Only 8 battalions of fresh troops were committed to the last attack on Wellington's ridge, of these only 5 were in the front line.

For the main battle, which had yet to begin in earnest, Napoleon had less men than Wellington. If Plancenoit was lost, the battle was lost, if the battle was lost, so was the campaign and with it the Emperor's throne."(Adkin pp 381-382, 390-391, Adkin - "Waterloo Companion)".

*Note: the actual quote is "give me night or give me Blücher", a prayer during Battle of Waterloo at about 5.45 pm on 18 June. Book reference is "The Military Maxims of Napoleon by Napoleon Bonaparte" by David G. Chandler and William E. Cairnes on page 143.  Though alternate wording may have been "Night or the Prussians must come", as quoted by David Howarth, "Waterloo: Day of Battle" on  page 162.  I tend to go by  Dr. Chandler's writings. 

Subject:  This pbg concerns the actions of Napoleon's attack against the Prussian's at Plancenoit.

Abbreviations used:  inf = Infantry, arty = artillery, AF = Attack Factor, DF = Defense Factor, PBG = Pocket Battle Game, MP = Movement Points, CD = Card Draw, ACT = Activations, "Allies" = Prussians & Silesians, mp = movement point, bldgs = buildings, GT = game turn, counters = units, "d" or 1d6 = six sided die, ">" = greater than, "<" = less than, ">" greater than or equal to, "<" less than or equal to math symbols.

Scale:  A quick guesstimate, if I may, considering that the infantry units can fire up to 1 hex away,  a hex is aprx 100 yards with the units representing battalions. Why only 1 hex? The area is actually a mess, with gullies, small hills, brush, farm fields, town, etc.  But, this is really not important.

Complexity:  Introductory!!!

Description of Play:  Either player draws a card (CD). The color and type of card allows one player to activate up to 3 units. Once activated, the unit can either move one hex or preform fire combat or flip a unit over from a reduce state to full strength. When the joker is drawn, the game turn is over.  Reshuffle the deck, advance the turn counter and play up to 5 complete game turns.  

Note: I am assuming that anyone who plays these games, at least takes them to a print shop and blow up the back side of the game incase of 1 or 2 things - 1) to have the rules in a more readable format and 2) to have a copy of any terrain aid (as in this pbg).  One can't pick up the game to double check while playing!

Components and Physical Quality: The game comes as on a standard size 4" x 6" postcard. The card is very nice and can take a lot of plays.  Printing is very good. The rules along with a small player's aid listing the terrain with it's corresponding card modifiers and unit breakdown are on the backside with the game map on the front.  Counters need to be cut out for playing.

Counters:  The game has 17 counters. Prussians have 9 (7 inf, 1 arty, and 1 leader (von Muffling)) counters and the French have 7 (6 inf, and 1 arty) counters and 1 game turn marker. Allies are green and use the "red" cards and French are blue and use the "black" cards.

Note: There is no difference in the game between the Young Guard or Old Guard except the AF and DF. There is a difference between the Prussians and the Silesian Rifles (SR) as von Muffling cannot stack with the SR.

Rather than write down all the rules, here they are.  Pretty self explanatory. There may be a couple of areas that might need clarification, these are the following:

1) To be able to use the arty units in support (+1 CD modifier) (either French or Prussian) does require 1 activation for the use of.  If arty is used and the combat CD is either an "even" or a Face card, the arty support marker is no longer available for that turn. It will be available again starting on the next turn.  Hmmm, do I use the arty for this attack or do I save it for later?

2) All terrain costs 1 mp to enter, but terrain does have a attack CD modifier of -1 CD with a possible  DR check, except clear.  The DR check is for units in stone bldgs - if attacking a unit in a stone bldg hex and it is hit, another DR is needed to see if they are affected - on a 3 or less, the unit is not affected and on a 4 or better, they are hit and reduced or if reduced, eliminated.  (those European stone bldgs are strong stuff). 

Roads do not have an effect on game play and there are no Zones of Control.  Fire combat range for inf units is 1 hex. For arty, add a +1 to the combat CD and can be used anywhere on the map.

And you may notice in the rules under "combat", it is stated "All infantry and cavalry units have a fire range of 1 hex."  What?!? 😲 What cavalry?  There are no cavalry units in the game. Well, knowing ATO, they probably have some type of add-on planned for the game in a future issue of Against The Odds, magazine.  Sneaky little devils.  

Play-Balance:  It looks and plays like another finely balance PBG.  It can go either way for Prussians or for the French, especially if von Muffling is killed early. 

In reality, it was a horrific bloody battle that could have gone either way. 

Summary:  I like this little pbg.  It is fun, has a few great new rules that can be added to other Napoleon pbgs such as flipping a reduce unit back to full strength with an added DR on whether is successful or not, or attacking a unit in a stone bldg with it's added DR frustrations.  

I do hope you will grab this little game and play it. If so, let me know what you think about it, as I am interested in hearing how you do with either side.

And sorry, it has taken me so long to get out this review. As it is said in Rocky Horror's "Time Warp" - "time is fleeting", life has been challenging lately, but it is getting better.  I hope to get out more reviews on different other type of games.  

Thanks for reading!

-ab 

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information. Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong.

Notice anything different?

Well, white instead of a dark background, font has changed and made larger.  Maybe this will help folks who need larger print to read better. And for folks who are color-blind, the colors won't disappear into a dark background.  Also, putting back when I can remember the graphics into the correct review.  However, rest assure, I may not remember who gave me permission, but every graphic I use has permissions.  

I do need to state that I don't format for smart phones of any type. Sorry, but since I don't use one, it never entered my mind that people would squint their eyes to read anything so small.  Monitors, laptops, even iPad type should be do-able.  I only use black or color lettering against a white background now, not as many graphics, and honestly, until Blogger does this automatically in reducing text or whatever is needed for those who do use smart phones, I am guessing I am out in the dust.  It's fun being a Luddite, but I do have a new battery power Toro mower!

Still, can't find where Google has put the photos when put into a blog post, but I found most of them on a dvd disc.  Yea for back ups.

And I bet you think I only play HFDGs or LPS. Well, I do branch out to other various designers and companies. And I have a new Compass Game coming Friday, WW1 Air Combat, "Western Front Ace: The Great War in the Air, 1916-1918" by Greg Smith and I am looking forward to it. 

 

Update: It came and it is very good and fun!

Lots of good reviews for this game, plus the fact I have been playing his "American Tank Ace" game, even taking it with me to the hospital in August. Nurses thought I was nuts with dice rolling instead of sleeping.  Though I have yet to play a Sherman, I like the M-10 and the M-18 Hellcat tank destroyers too much. Greg provided the two different mats and rules on BGG for the M-10 and M-18. This game is addicting and brutal!!! 
 

ATA is very well designed, not with a lot of the down in the dirt rules like Patton's Best (yes, I got that one too, still), or like ASL (I really dislike ASL and SL because those who play it, think that is combat - HA!). 

 

ATA uses a simple system that gives a lot of historical feeling while playing.  I really recommend this game.  And you can get it from "A Gray Rooster Sales LLC" too. If you are overseas, use their Ebay store.

I have most of Greg's games, especially all of his solo games, I just like them. But to be honest, I think the most brutal solo game he has out is "The Hunted: Twilight of the U-Boats, 1943-45".  This was not the "heyday" of the U-Boat, but their ending. 99% of the games out there are just games, however, this game truly makes one wonder why did the young men in the Kriegsmarine become submariners (and hopefully you pronounce this word correctly!).  Errata and rule book for both Compass Games can be found either on Compass Games website or BGG where Greg actively supports all his games. 

There is also a new solo WW1 flying game "Aces of Valor" from Legion. Looks to "one up" on the DVG Leader series.  Rules are here.  

 

Lots of goodies for those who solo game.

Well, enough on all that.  Time to get off the butt and finish up the last PBG on Waterloo.  Soon.  I've been a house husband far too long with the healing. Doc yelled at me and said, no walking outside, take it easy, take the pain pills (that I am glad to say I am OFF of them! So thank you Miss Oxy for making me feel good, but you and I have to part company.  No wood working, no getting any kind of cuts or scrapes, but I see him on Sept 12 to get cleared and watch out! I got to winterize the house, garage, and the feral cat house.   

 

Update: I passed the Doc's test, and yes, I got back into walking and wood working. Plus I got my house, garage winterized and working on the new cat house, too.

Take care and if the site doesn't look ok, send me an email or a comment about where it is sucking.  :)

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong. And I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that are no longer on this blog.

New idea from "Against The Odds" magazine

For years people have been after ATO to sell them just their Pocket Battle Games (if you don't know what these are, here is a link on this blog that yaks about them). Finally the time has come and ATO has listen to us.

UPDATE: Here it is almost a year since ATO began selling these and now more of these PBG packs are available.  Here is the link!

Available now are three different PBG packs for shipping:

1) The Trouble Waters PBG Pack
Comprised of 5 postcard size playing maps with 100 full color 1/2" die-cut pieces, 1 page of rules for each individual game and 1 deck of playing cards. Don't forget the zip lock bag!

2) The Waterloo PBG Pack
This pack is comprised of 4 postcard size playing maps with 80 full color 1/2" die-cut pieces, 1 page of rules for each individual game, 1 page of rules for the campaign game and 1 deck of playing cards. And a zip lock bag to keep it all together.

3) The Peiper PBG Pack
This pack has all 4 postcard size playing maps with 40 full color 1/2" die-cut pieces, 1 page of rules for each individual game, 4 pages of rules for the campaign game, all Charts and tables on 1 card-stock sheet and 1 deck of playing cards. Plus the special ATO zip lock bag (ok, I am joking, it's a regular zip lock bag 😁 ).  

This set I bought, not because I didn't have everything all ready, but wanted to see how well the packs were put together. The packs are very nice. But do me a favor, tell ATO when you buy these where you saw them available (HERE).  Trying to prove a point to ATO.

And if you are a follower of this blog, then you know I like 'em, the PBGs, a lot. 

Right now I got my eyes set on the Waterloo and Trouble Waters, but I have a couple of lawns to mow to get the money.  That will be in a few weeks as I am still under the care of my surgeon for the new left hip replacement I received in August 2023. 

Take care and good gaming. IMHO, you can't go wrong with these PBG packs.

-ab  

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong. And I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that are no longer on this blog.

The Online Gaming Store to end Online Gaming Stores

I don't know what happen to my older posting about "A Gray Rooster Sales LLC", but it is gone. Google strikes again! I will try to re-write it, but it won't be the same as the first post I made, please remember that if you had seen it before.

I use Gray Rooster as it is a very reliable and trust worthy site.  They do use PayPal for payment.   Not only do they have an online presence but also can be found on one of 4 places - 

• Amazon,  
• Ebay,  
• Board Game Geek,  
• and Farce (oops) Face Book,
  
• online @  A Gray Rooster Sales LLC

Note - if you live any other place than the US of A, use his Ebay store for ordering.

What I have found is that some games are not available at each store, but I always tend to buy from his regular online store, not worrying about the other sites.  

Dan is the man's name and yes, he has an African Gray Parrot.  One of the world's longest living and smartest birds.  A lady friend of mine had one and he was smart. Whenever I showed up to work on her computer, he would yell out "computer broke".  Like I said, very smart. 

Two types of shipping is offered - UPS or USPS.  All the important info is in red on his online site.  Pretty easy to navigate. He sells games from ATO, Revolution, Compass, DVG, GMT, Legion, Worthington, and a few others. Now, not all games are available, as these publishers do keep back some of the games for them to sell at outrageous prices, but enough of publisher's games are available to make it worthwhile to visit this store.

I like this site so well, that the last 35 games I have bought came from Gray Rooster.  And no, I don't receive any type of kick back. I just like the way he does business and his sensible, "treats you like his best friend attitude" he has. Not many places do business like this anymore.  Reminds me of the old brick and mortar hobby stores from the 70s & 80s.

There is not much more to say, but go take a look and if you haven't use Gray Rooster before, give them a try.  

👈 👈 The quality of service will amaze you. And the quality of his shipping the package to you will amaze you as well.  When I use other gaming companies, the game is just thrown into a box, rattles around a bit and sometimes a corner is crushed.  Not with Gray Rooster. 

👈 👈 It will take you 20 minutes to open that box and remove all the water tight plastic just to get to the game.  It is that good of shipping protection.  

Don't believe me? 😉

👈 👈 Look to the left 👈 👈 and there is one of the last games purchased from "A Gray Rooster", still in it's protective wrapping and the extra bubble wrap with their card in the lower right, sealed against water damage.  Yes, they are that good.  👍

-ab  

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong. And I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that are no longer on this blog. Long story, but it was Google who removed them.

Google screws with anyone who uses Blogger

Old post, just renamed it is all....  plus we do use "Duck Duck Go" as our search engine and the add-on "Don't Track Me Google"  Good stuff.  And I block ads from anything google related.

GREAT NEWS - I found where I stash most of the photos and art I used on the blog!!!!  Not sure where Google has placed the one test photo I am using, but I will do my best to find it.  

Google in their wisdom of stupidity, has removed everyone's photo storage.  Yes, removed it and as a result, my blog (and theirs) is messed up.  Will it come back. Prob if I can find the photos I used.  I still haven't found where Blogger stores graphics used.  But I will.

Foxtrot...Uniform...Charlie...Kilo...Yankee...Oscar...Uniform Google. 

What I find amazing is that they allow the spamming of sex ads, porn and general crap to be sent to gmail, google drive, google docs, and the new google photo area, etc, without folks allowing consent for this crap. And since I don't like that crap or view it, I find that the whole google experience is now for idiots. 

And I am still an idiot as I haven't gone to word press yet. It's that server cost. 😏

Ok, I have found where I stored all my graphic backups and slowly but surely putting them back with the posts.  This won't happen over night, but will be done. 

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information. And I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that are no longer on this blog. 

Barring the Gate: The battle for Château d'Hougoumont

"Closing the gates at Hougoumont by Robert Gibb 1903"

 

Yes, another small pocket game, Against the Odds Pocket Battle Game #27 "Barring the Gate: The Battle for Château d'Hougoumont", the French morning assault on the fortified position of the Château d'Hougoumont, Battle of Waterloo, 18 June 1815.

The fighting at Hougoumont has often been characterized as a diversionary attack to draw in Wellington's reserves which escalated into an all-day battle and drew in French reserves instead.

In fact there is a good case to believe that both Napoleon and Wellington thought that holding Hougoumont was key to winning the battle. Hougoumont was a part of the battlefield that Napoleon could see clearly, and he continued to direct resources towards it and its surroundings all afternoon (33 battalions in all, 14,000 troops).

Similarly, though the house never contained a large number of troops, Wellington devoted 21 battalions (12,000 troops) over the course of the afternoon in keeping the hollow way open to allow fresh troops and ammunition to reach the buildings. He moved several artillery batteries from his hard-pressed center to support Hougoumont, and later stated that "the success of the battle turned upon closing the gates at Hougoumont". (wiki/battle of Waterloo)

Title: Barring the Gate: The Battle for Château d'Hougoumont
Price: $0 free with a purchase or buy The Waterloo PBG Pack from ATO
Series: ATO PBG #27
Designer: Paul Rohrbaugh
Graphics Designer: Mark Mahaffey
Publisher: LPS, Inc
Published Date: 2021

Subject:  This pbg concerns the morning French assault on the Hougoumont. 

Abbreviations used:  inf = Infantry, arty = artillery, AF = Attack Factor, DF = Defense Factor, PBG = Pocket Battle Game, MP = Movement Points, CD = Card Draw, ACT = Activations, "Allies" = Prussians & Silesians, mp = movement point, bldgs = buildings, ASA = Assault Staging Area, GT = game turn, counters = units, "d" or 1d6 = six sided die, ">" = greater than, "<" = less than, ">" greater than or equal to, "<" less than or equal to math symbols.

Scale:  A guesstimate if I may, considering that the infantry units can fire up to 2 hexes away (-1 when attacking 2 hexes),  a hex is aprx 100 yards with the units representing battalions.  But, this is really not important. 

Complexity:  Introductory!!!

Description of Play:  Either player draws a card (CD). The color and type of card allows one player to activate up to 1 to 3 units. Once activated, depending on the card, the unit can either move one hex or preform fire combat or flip a unit over from a reduce state to full strength. 
 

The die is used by either player during their attack to see if hits against an opposing unit is effective. Roll 1D6. If the DR is < units DF, the unit is not reduce. If the DR is > units DF, it is flipped or eliminated if already flipped.

Note: If you have played TSP's pbg #5, "A Hard Pounding" or ATO's "La Garde Recule" #10, then you will know how to play this one.  

Components and Physical Quality:  The game comes as a standard size 4" x 6" postcard cardboard. The card is very nice and can take a lot of plays.  Printing is very good. The rules along with a small player's aid listing the terrain with it's corresponding card modifiers and unit breakdown are on the backside with the game map on the front.  Counters need to be cut out for playing.

Counters:  The game only has 15 counters. Allies have 7 infantry unit counters that start the game. The French have 8 counters with 6 starting the game in the ASA and 2 units starting in the ASA at the start of the 3rd Assault Period and one Assault marker. Allied units are red (British) with black lettering and the French are blue with white lettering.  

 
Note: There are no differences between Guard units and regular line (foot) infantry.

Game Map:  For such a small game map it is well design. I can see why LPS, Inc uses Mark as their GD.  

Player added Component:  Players will need to provide a normal deck of cards and 1 D6.  

Card Deck setup:   Shuffle a standard card deck with 1 Joker,  A CD is perform with the French using black cards and Allies using red cards.  An activation allows a unit to either move or perform fire combat.

Each type of card does the following:

• An even CD allows up to two units to activate.  
• An odd CD allows up to three units to activate. 
• A face card CD allows one unit to activate or to flip one unit from reduced to full strength.
  
• An Ace is treated as a one for combat or odd for activation.
• For combat when a face card is drawn, it is an automatic "miss".
• The Joker signals the end of the game turn when it is drawn for either activation or combat resolution, unless it is drawn before both sides have activated units. In this case, bury it and continue play until the end of the deck.

Note: Of course, High Flying Dice Games has their own card set for this game. Click on the jpg to the right to go to the card sets.  And no, it is the not the same for La Garde, recule.  Basically each of the 4 pbg in this series all use different card setups. 

Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10):  This is like A Hard Pounding.  I give it a 7.  It can be played as solitaire, as just about any game can. 

Versions/Scenarios:  Only one version, no extra rules or scenarios.

Setup Time:  Once everything is cut out, what, maybe 3 mins for setup? It will take longer to shuffle the card deck.

Playing Time:  This one is quick.  My games last 30 to 45 mins if that long. Maybe 45 mins to 1 hour to learn the game the first time, but after?

Rules:  The rules are simple and flow nicely from the various areas of "Setup" to "Play" to "Combat" and to "Reinforcements".  After looking over and playing this little game, I found these rules to be very logical, concise, and can see why all 3 PBGs on Waterloo plays so well. Most important - NO ZONES OF CONTROL and combat is voluntary. 

Addenda:  "none" as I can't find any.

Description of Play:  Play is very easy, almost as if the designer was using a formula that he perfected in the past, sweet. This game has the following:

• Setup:
• 7 British units setup in any light red or medium green coloured hexes. 
• 6 French units (6th and 9th Divisions) setup in the bluish ASA area.
• No stacking
• Play:
• A card draw (CD) activates units for either moving 1 hex or fire combat.
• It doesn't matter who draws the card, as it is the color and type of card that  depicts which unit(s) are activated.
• Combat:
• Units may fire up to 2 hexes away.
• Infantry have a -2 CD modifier if firing at a non-adjacent hex.
• Terrain on combat
• Wooded or Orchard terrain has a -1 CD modifier.
• Chateau has a -2 CD and a DR check (see above under "Description of Play").
  
• No firing thru other units, Chateau, or woods, but can fire into such hexes.
• To perform a combat resolution, the attacker picks out the lucky defending target.
• a CD is performed (any color or suite is used), adding this to the AF. 
• Subtract the DF and hex terrain and/or range.
• Face cards are an outright miss. 
• A hit is scored on the defender if the final modified value is greater ">"than the target units DF. 
• If the unit was full strength, it is flipped over to it's reduced side. 
• If the unit was reduced from before, it is eliminated and removed from play.
• If the modified value is less than or equal to " < " the target's DF:  No Effect.
• Reinforcements:
• Only the French receives reinforcements. 2 French units (5th Division) enter at the start of the 3rd Assault Period.

Game Length:  The game lasts up to 6 turns of card deck shuffles. The French immediately wins if there are no British units left in both Chateau hexes. The British wins the game if the French fail to achieve victory by the end of the last turn.

Special Unit Counter:  There are no special counters. 

That's it, pretty much everything one would want to know about this game. 

Play-Balance:  This pbg, imho, is finely balance as any pbg. Out of the 20 or so games played, the Allies won 55%, with the French winning 45%. 

Not sure what heading to use:  I had two full paragraphs on possible strategies but you know, the game is small enough that you, "yes, you laddie", can come up with your own. Besides my non-ability to win very many of the games as the French disqualifies me from offering advice. :D  However, if I may suggest that you get all 3 (now 4) of these little Battle of Waterloo pocket battle games, it will be worth it. 

Summary:  This is the 3rd pbg on the Battle of Waterloo.  There are many books written on this battle.  I have ten big thick books myself from the quint-essential bible on Napoleon "The Campaigns of Napoleon" by Dr Chandler to Scotty Bowden's masterpiece "Waterloo" and all in between.  Also, I have all the Osprey books on the various units of this battle, including several French books on uniforms and tactics (these are out of print) and the pride of my art prints collection - the old Heritage Miniature set of all the uniforms at the Battle of Waterloo. 

 

There are literately dozens of websites not only on Napoleon and the Battle of Waterloo, but on the different regiments, battalions, brigades, and other leaders. 

 

This time period is covered more than the Roman Empire or Germany versus Soviet Union.  Games are very numerous too.  For example, I have 15 board games, three sets of miniature rules, and the seven pocket games. Though most tend to take hours (and hours and hours and...) to play, these little pocket battle games take only 45 mins or less. A bargain these little games are and the price is right too.    

 

A web site that I with all sincerity recommend, is "The Napoleon Series".  Napoleonic history galore. And there is also "The Waterloo Association" that one can join.

 

And I see that I went to much greater game detail than what I want to do these days.  This may be the last....

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information. And I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that are no longer on this blog. Long story, but it was Google who removed them.

[edited Sept 19 2023 - Added newly found painting and corrected a few things]

Bloody Mohawk

 

"When the Indians succeed in their silent approaches…a scene of horror, that exceeds description, ensues…. The figure of the combatants all besmeared with black and red paint, and covered with the blood of the slain, their horrid yells, and ungovernable fury, are not to be conceived by those who have never crossed the Atlantic."

And so, with the end of the Battle for Fort William Henry begins the massacre at Fort William Henry.

Bloody Mohawk "The French and Indian War", Scenario Battle of Fort William Henry August 8, 1757, page 14-15

As I lost this scenario to the French and their Indian allies, I remember the above that Jonathon Carver had wrote in his book "Travels Through the Interior Parts of North America, in the Years 1766, 1767, and 1768."  (London: C. Dilly; H. Payne; J. Phillips, 1781, 313) and actually thought "this, is the end..."

Title: Bloody Mohawk, "The French and Indian War"
Price: $ 39.99 for what I paid. I don't even know if this is still available from Lock n' Load as I don't visit their web site.  But I will sell you both my Bloody Mohawk and it' companion game for $75 + shipping in the USA. Contact me for details.
Designer: Bill Molyneaux
Graphic Designer: Jose Ramon Faura
Publisher: Lock 'N Load - Battle on Demand series
Published Date: 2018 & 2020
Subject: French and Indian War

Note: Yes, this war, if one is in Europe or Canada would agree is part of the Seven Years War as it is considered the beginning. However, in the US, the majority considered this separate as it is the only part of that war that involved the American colonies and as a result, use the name "French and Indian War". So, if I write something and you don't agree with it, at least you have an idea where I am coming from and hopefully be respectful.

Scale: not mention, but probably 100 yards to the hex. How did I come up with this? Easy.  Muskets have a range between 50 to 100 yards, bows about the same, and the light artillery (1 to 3) during this time has a range of about 300 yards and for heavy artillery (1-5) of about 500 yards.

Game Area: various battle areas in North America during the time frame.

Player Supplied Components: None needed. Even the 10 sided die (DR) is included.

Components and Physical Quality:  Very nice.  Some of the nicest I have seen. The following is included:

1 x Zip-lock Bag
12 x 8.5” x 11.0” game maps
1 x Game Manual

1 x Counter Sheet of 88 Die Cut Counters
1 x Terrain Effects Chart (Player Aid) card
1 x d10 Die

Counters:  Rounded corners, .6" in size, colourful. The counters for each side has a very well done drawing of a combatant with a background of their national flag. 

Game Map: Colourful, large white outline hexes against various shades of green and brown on heavy card stock 8.5" x 11" in size.  Double sided. 

Additional Components: Terrain Effects Chart (TEC) called a Player Aid.  Listing the various terrain, the movement costs, combat modifiers, and the effect on retreating. Also included on the TEC is the turn track.  

This one additional to the TEC causes the  non-ability to be able to pick up the TEC to read the information for everything else.  Two cents of paper and ink couldn't be spared?  Should have been separate.  

Easy enough to make a new one,  and the "Bun" has come to the rescue. Here is a game turn track and marker I made for myself.  Free to download and use, but no selling, please.

A special word needs to be said about the included D10.  Mine is Marine blue with white numbers.  It is a very well made die with good points, well balance, not cheap at all.  I have $5 D10 dice, but this one from the game puts them all to shame. 

Complexity: EASY, Introductory.  The game is also being sold at various National Parks. No additional variant rules to add complexity, though there are special rules listed for each scenario.

Scenarios:  12 fast playing scenarios depicting various battles during the French and Indian Wars in North America. 

Setup Time:  If sorted, 5 minutes.  If not sorted, probably 10 - 15 minutes.

Playing Time:  Between 15 mins to 1 - 2 hours, depending on the scenario. 

Number of Players: Designed for two players. 

Solitaire Playability (Scale 1 to 10):  Not very good, a 7, but just about any game can be played solo.

Rules:  These are very simple rules, they do need some help.  

Addenda:  None has ever been published.  However, I found quite a few questions asked on several different forums and gathered the questions and answers into one place.  See below. (though, I understand folks having questions, what I can't understand is not publishing an errata sheet and having it on LnL's web site, as they do have a forum) 

Play-Balance:  Good. Some scenarios handicap one side or the other, to simulate what was going on at that battle, at that particular hour.  For example, to simulate wet weather, a scenario has the attackers adding +2 to their attack DR for wet powder.

Any additional to the rules?  Sure there are. Special rules are listed in the scenarios. 

Evaluation or Summary:  The game is good, as it does what it is suppose to do, being introductory. I would have to give it a 7.  The rules could use a touch up and be explain in a few areas better. 

No, I did not pay much and the game was not sent to me for free for review.  Being a subscriber to War Diary (WD) magazine, one gets a coupon for one free game from Lock N Load. All one has to do is pay postage - I used my coupon for this game and it cost me aprx $15 for shipping.  Another bonus of subscribing to WD  included in the price are several 25% off coupons for games from Lock N Load and Revolution Games.   Besides the interesting articles (even for games I will never purchase) and some of the top writers in the field, Roy and Rob of WD has worked hard to give subscribers the best bang for the buck. For this, I thank them. Also, congrats for the 2019 Origins Award!!!  

There are several problem areas that need to be known - there is very little to no rules for line of sight of artillery (since they are ranged attacks) and the counters are hard to understand. For example the combat factor is shown as "1/6".  Think of the 1/6 as 1-6. (why?!?  The "-" shows a range of numbers, while "/" means "and/or". Sort of silly isn't it.) The graphic to the right shows what the counters are like with explanations.

Using the example from above "1-6", on a DR of 1, an attack always succeeds.  A DR of 2 to 6 can hit, but terrain has to be added. For example, if a defending unit is in a defensive position (a stone bldg), +3 is added to the attackers DR. If a 6 is rolled, add +3 for the bldg, the final is attack number is 9, a miss. 

An errata sheet would have taken care of these questions instead of questions being asked on several forums on several different web sites.  To me, not making a errata sheet and making it available on the publishers site is sheer laziness.

Here is a collection of questions and answers found on several forums on different gaming sites.  (note - I take no responsibility for the way these are written, I just copied and put into a doc file. Some of them don't make a lot of sense, and you are on your own.)

1) Counters: what does the "1/" in front of the combat factor signify?

A1. The 1/6 or 1/7 etc is the ‘to hit’ number based on the units Combat Roll number. Anything within this range is the die roll needed to make a successful attack.  

A2. note - Combat value of say “1-7” that is the number you must roll to achieve a hit. an example in play test with NON war gamers having the one number of a 7 confused them was it a number above a seven or below a seven. Once we changed it to a value of “1-7” as an example, it solved that issue.  (too bad this isn't listed as such on the counter)

2) Counters: why is light spelled "lite"?

 A. It was the designer’s choice of phrase as it is from the period. "Lite" was the type of gun class.  (Really?!? I have yet to find in the period diaries I have read or any historical books that the spelling of the word "light" spelled as "lite" is used.  Well, whatever trips your trigger. 😄)

3) Are road hexes that have woods in them treated as woods for combat purposes?

A. No, the Terrain Effects Chart shows no Combat or Retreat effects. The unit that is traveling along the road does not benefit from the surrounding terrain because the roads were built in light woods terrain.

4) (The) "R" spaces at the bottom of the Monongahela map are not referenced in the rulebook.

A. These denote the direction of retreat for this scenario.

5) Is the French leader considered a unit for purposes of victory conditions in the Braddock’s Defeat scenario?

A. No, the French leader is not considered a unit for victory point conditions. Historically, he was killed at the start of the actual battle.

6) What are the camp hexes referenced in the victory conditions for the Battle of Lake George, and when it says they are considered units for losses does that mean if the British enter the hexes?

A. Per the designer: All of the hexes, for camp are at the edge where the British start.

7) Battle of Sideling Hill: no hexes are marked B, F or R for unit placement.

A. Please open a support ticket to get this taken care of for you as it sounds like you don't have the correct map.  (1st edition. It was quickly fixed. Contact LnL)

8) Battle of Fort William Henry: no hexes are marked with an underlined F.  

A. Same as above, please open a support ticket to have that taken care of for you. (1st edition. It was quickly fixed. Contact LnL)

9) Does reference to optional retreat rules just means the last paragraph of the retreat rules?

A. Yes. If a unit takes a hit, flip the counter and then roll the morale number. If it fails this roll,  then retreat towards to direction of retreat.

10) Do friendly units block line of sight for artillery? Seems it would be blocked (as in most other games) but rules only reference terrain as blocking line of sight.

A. Yes any unit blocks line of sight for the big guns.

11) Terrain chart says some units, those without a green F, cannot retreat into forest hex without first passing a morale test.   

A. Rules under 5.3 states that the unit forced to retreat into a forest hex is eliminated upon failing its retreat test.

12)  I am assuming a Morale Test and Retreat Roll are same thing, is that right?   

A. You test your moral if your unit has taken a loss, if it fails, it retreats

13) Are non Green MF units prohibited from retreating into a forest hex or may they retreat if they pass a Morale Test? It seems like the TEC contemplates a two step process - Retreat Roll then a second Morale Test to enter Forest hex? Or are non Green MF simply prohibited from retreating into a forest hex?    

A. Red F units may not retreat into a forest.

14) Can you retreat to a hex adjacent to a enemy unit? I assume “no,” but not sure. Rules say you must retreat away from attacker.     

A. Retreat away from the enemy and you canny (cannot) retreat into a enemy unit.

15) How do I trace LOS?  Should I use the traditional center-to-center method? If so, what happens if my LOS runs through a hex spine, where a hex is blocking terrain and the other is not?     

A. Line of site - if there  are trees, a house, or something blocking the path you can't see it. However you can shoot down a road.

16) Do intervening units block LOS?    

A. Yes units block line of site.

17) Road terrain and forests. A hex with a road passing through a forest, how is it considered for combat?  A road or a forest?    

 A. Road in the woods is still consider woods for combat as there is cover on both sides of the road but you may shoot a cannon ball down the road.

18) In the Battle of Lake George scenario instructions it is said that the British leader and the three "camp hexes" are to be considered as units for victory purposes. The issue is that I cannot find any "camp hex"!     

A. Lake George scenario, the three clear hexes are the camp hexes.

19) What is the (French) "CDB"?

A. The CDB (Coureurs d'Bois) represents French Trappers and locals who were not part of the militia.

Finale...  on to the soapbox!!!  How to remember to go to everyone's web site to get answers is beyond me.  And saying to make up house rules, is ridiculous. Every game should be the best it can be, rules explained, and if a player doesn't like it, then they can make up their own rules.  But when one does this, the game changes from what the designer was thinking/making.  

Sorry, but this laissez-faire thinking towards game rules is a cop out.  For Snakes & Ladders, sure, but not a war game.  Yes, life is short, but when one designs a game such as this, there needs to be semi-concrete answers and errata, especially when intentionally sold at State and National parks (good idea though) to potentially folks who may have never played a game such as this. Since the publisher has their own forum area, this should have been the only place to find answers and an errata sheet, not all over the place. 

There is only one designer/developer I know and he has the smarts to listen to his play testers when they ask "what are you trying to do with this rule in this game?". He also explains the rational behind the rule and listens to possible better ways of rewriting that rule.  Not saying most good designers and developers don't do this, I only know of one personally.

What's strange is there are some really interesting ideas in the game.  The addition of special rules for the scenarios (though not new to games, just being used in a very introductory game), the use of colour coding on the counters to show those units that can go thru woods or not, among a few others.  Very interesting. Would I buy this game if I had known all of this before hand?  For the low cost I paid for the game, yeah.  But honestly, not for full price.  If you have money to burn, then by all means go for it.   

Off the soapbox...  Well, that is it for this review. It is a good, fun game, with some of the nicest counters and maps (and rules booklet) I have seen in a long time, aimed supposedly at a novice.  But, it needs a veteran gamer to show the novice the ropes due to some of the problem areas in the rules.

There is a sister game to "Bloody Mohawks" called "Savage Wilderness" with different scenarios. Same counters, rule booklet (names changed of course), same look and feel to the game maps, same problem areas, but honestly, not worth the money.  These maps and scenarios should have been added to this game. And that would make Bloody Mohawk a great game buy at $39.99, even with the problem areas.  Or even offering Savage Wilderness as an add-on like LnL's Tank Vs Tank Eastern Front (or Western Tank) does. 

My suggestion, unless you are a collector and don't play the games you have bought, is to buy one or the other and grab the one you didn't buy as a download and print out the scenarios and the game maps. You will save money in the long run as they are both the same rules booklet, same counters, same TEC (player's aid), though a different dedication.

Thank you for coming to the blog and reading...  

-ab

This blog is considered to be a living blog. Changes will be made to it as needed to clarify, correct errors or update with new information.  Also, this is my opinion, right or wrong. And I apologize, but this review may contain references to graphics that are no longer on this blog. Long story, but it was Google who removed them.

 

[edited 02 Jul 2021 to clarify a couple of points and correct a word]

[edited 13 Sept 2021 to really correct a misspelled word. Not the first time not the last!]

[Sept 23 - found the missing graphics and putting some back]